DIY-Central.com - Go Create something! - PCB Design, Electronics - PCB http://www.diy-central.com/ Electronics, PCB, Audio, Recording, Studio - Build, Create, Hacks en-us DIY-Central.com Wed, 28 Jul 2010 19:59:14 GMT newtelligence dasBlog 1.9.6264.0 info@fivefish.net info@fivefish.net http://www.diy-central.com/Trackback.aspx?guid=ff182fb7-c558-4b95-8fb5-b9ad9a10c851 http://www.diy-central.com/pingback.aspx http://www.diy-central.com/PermaLink,guid,ff182fb7-c558-4b95-8fb5-b9ad9a10c851.aspx DIY-Central.com Administrator This is my workflow when designing a new Eagle part library.

I like to buy the part beforehand, if possible. This gives me the chance to touch it and visually inspect the part and verify that the part dimensions match the working drawings from the manufacturer.

If working drawings from the manufacturer are not available, I use my digital caliper to make detailed dimensions of the part outline, and pin spacing and pin diameters.

If official PDF working drawings/datasheet are available, I use it though. Trust, but Verify.

Today, we're creating an Eagle part library for a switch.

Opening the datasheet, we look for the part dimensions.


In this case, we also take note of the switch positions, to see which terminals are connected depending on the switch position (up or down).



Next step is creating the schematic symbol for the part. In this case, an SPDT switch.

We also add "pins" to the schematic symbol. I use a "point" when defining pins on the schematic symbol.

I also like to match the "pin numbers" with the actual pin numbers used by the manufacturer.... makes life simpler.



Next, is creating the physical outline of the part. This is the FUN part for me. I like to make the part looking as authentic as possible. We also take care that we're following the part dimensions specified by the manufacturer. Don't forget to check pin spacings, and most importantly... pin DIAMETER. Since the PCBs will have plated through holes, I make the pad diameters just a hair-thin slightly bigger.

To make working easier, make sure to set your snaps and grid to 0.05" square, and 0.01" for the fine grid spacing.

And make sure holes/pads are centered on each "snap."



Make a print out your part and overlay the real part against your "printed part outline." Check if the holes, dimensions are correct and aligned. You may need several passes to get this right if you don't have official working drawings and just relying on caliper measurements.

If everything looks good, then we proceed to the next step.

Now, we tie together (match) the pin#s we created in the schematic symbol with the actual pin#s in the part outline.

This is also a good time to enter a part description field. I try to include Mouser or Digikey part #s in the description.



Next step is I try to use the new part library in a test schematic.

I want to verify that when I connect other components to this new part, that the correct pins correspond with the PCB design.

This is a good time to catch any errors you've made in pin-matching.

Here's our test schematic. R1 is connected to terminal #1 of the switch, R2 connected to terminal #2 and R3 connected to terminal #3.



Then we switch to the Board Layout view and verify that it's correct.



And we see that everything is OK. The pin #s in the schematic match the pin#s in the board layout.

In Eagle, the text ">NAME" and ">VALUE" are special. Eagle will substitute these text with the actual part name and part value in your schematic.

So in the symbol editor, let's add these text. Put the ">NAME" in the NAMES layer and put ">VALUE" in the VALUES layer.



In the Device Editor, click the Prefix button. Enter a prefix text.



Since this is a switch, we could use the prefix "SW" or "S". Now when you add multiple parts in your schematic, it will be renamed "SW1", "SW2", "SW3".... (Of course, you need to have ">NAME" present in the symbol, see step above.)
And we're done. This Is My Workflow When Designing A New Eagle Part Library I Like To Buy The Part Before http://www.diy-central.com/PermaLink,guid,ff182fb7-c558-4b95-8fb5-b9ad9a10c851.aspx http://www.diy-central.com/ThisIsMyWorkflowWhenDesigningANewEaglePartLibraryILikeToBuyThePartBefore.aspx Wed, 28 Jul 2010 19:59:14 GMT <span class="postbody">This is my workflow when designing a new Eagle part library. <br> <br> I like to buy the part beforehand, if possible. This gives me the chance to touch it and visually inspect the part and verify that the part dimensions match the working drawings from the manufacturer. <br> <br> If working drawings from the manufacturer are not available, I use my digital caliper to make detailed dimensions of the part outline, and pin spacing and pin diameters. <br> <br> If official PDF working drawings/datasheet are available, I use it though. Trust, but Verify. <br> <br> Today, we're creating an Eagle part library for a switch. <br> <br> Opening the datasheet, we look for the part dimensions. <br> <img src="http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4149/4836218483_111ff83ee5_o.jpg" border="0"> <br> <br> In this case, we also take note of the switch positions, to see which terminals are connected depending on the switch position (up or down). <br> <br> <img src="http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4153/4836218489_2a9e9c48f5_o.jpg" border="0"> <br> <br> Next step is creating the schematic symbol for the part. In this case, an SPDT switch. <br> <br> We also add "pins" to the schematic symbol. I use a "point" when defining pins on the schematic symbol. <br> <br> I also like to match the "pin numbers" with the actual pin numbers used by the manufacturer.... makes life simpler. <br> <br> <img src="http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4148/4836828722_e4d614dbe1_o.jpg" border="0"> <br> <br> Next, is creating the physical outline of the part. This is the FUN part for me. I like to make the part looking as authentic as possible. We also take care that we're following the part dimensions specified by the manufacturer. Don't forget to check pin spacings, and most importantly... pin DIAMETER. Since the PCBs will have plated through holes, I make the pad diameters just a hair-thin slightly bigger. <br> <br> To make working easier, make sure to set your snaps and grid to 0.05" square, and 0.01" for the fine grid spacing. <br> <br> And make sure holes/pads are centered on each "snap." <br> <br> <img src="http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4130/4836828746_c36bc30b9a_o.jpg" border="0"> <br> <br> Make a print out your part and overlay the real part against your "printed part outline." Check if the holes, dimensions are correct and aligned. You may need several passes to get this right if you don't have official working drawings and just relying on caliper measurements. <br> <br> If everything looks good, then we proceed to the next step. <br> <br> Now, we tie together (match) the pin#s we created in the schematic symbol with the actual pin#s in the part outline. <br> <br> This is also a good time to enter a part description field. I try to include Mouser or Digikey part #s in the description. <br> <br> <img src="http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4133/4836218549_807ae7408a_b.jpg" border="0"> <br> <br> Next step is I try to use the new part library in a test schematic. <br> <br> I want to verify that when I connect other components to this new part, that the correct pins correspond with the PCB design. <br> <br> This is a good time to catch any errors you've made in pin-matching. <br> <br> Here's our test schematic. R1 is connected to terminal #1 of the switch, R2 connected to terminal #2 and R3 connected to terminal #3. <br> <br> <img src="http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4112/4836828788_365240a7fe_o.jpg" border="0"> <br> <br> Then we switch to the Board Layout view and verify that it's correct. <br> <br> <img src="http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4150/4836218685_0ea5023b57_o.jpg" border="0"> <br> <br> And we see that everything is OK. The pin #s in the schematic match the pin#s in the board layout. <br> <br> </span><span class="postbody">In Eagle, the text "&gt;NAME" and "&gt;VALUE" are special. Eagle will substitute these text with the actual part name and part value in your schematic. <br> <br> So in the symbol editor, let's add these text. Put the "&gt;NAME" in the NAMES layer and put "&gt;VALUE" in the VALUES layer. <br> <br> <img src="http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4086/4837347583_5e73ab835a_b.jpg" border="0"> <br> <br> In the Device Editor, click the Prefix button. Enter a prefix text. <br> <br> <img src="http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4126/4837352753_cd67f006e6_b.jpg" border="0"> <br> <br> Since this is a switch, we could use the prefix "SW" or "S". Now when you add multiple parts in your schematic, it will be renamed "SW1", "SW2", "SW3".... (Of course, you need to have "&gt;NAME" present in the symbol, see step above.)<br> <br> </span><span class="postbody"> <br> And we're done.</span><img width="0" height="0" src="http://www.diy-central.com/aggbug.ashx?id=ff182fb7-c558-4b95-8fb5-b9ad9a10c851" /> DIY;PCB;Eagle CAD;PCB Design http://www.diy-central.com/Trackback.aspx?guid=c226e7b2-e13b-40c4-b414-a77e17bbc508 http://www.diy-central.com/pingback.aspx http://www.diy-central.com/PermaLink,guid,c226e7b2-e13b-40c4-b414-a77e17bbc508.aspx DIY-Central.com Administrator A flash of inspiration... I found a smaller footprint output transformer I can use... so I created an Eagle part library for that. (Tip: use a digital caliper when creating part libraries)

After some creative rearranging of parts, and I made this.

This is just the motherboard. Measuring about 6" x 6".


Ch-check it out!

2 Input Transformers - NEW FEATURE
2 Output Transformers - NEW FEATURE
Gain and Trim knob for each channel
2 VU Meters
4 Full size XLRs
Relay Controlled switching - NEW FEATURE
Bigger DC Converters - NEW FEATURE
... and better PCB layout by re-arranging parts.

Also, reduced the number of molex connectors from the original (7) to a single 10-pin Molex! That will be a big time-saver.... plus the use of PCB mounted XLR Neutrik Jacks.

TS-2 Rev.B Preamp Redesign http://www.diy-central.com/PermaLink,guid,c226e7b2-e13b-40c4-b414-a77e17bbc508.aspx http://www.diy-central.com/TS2RevBPreampRedesign.aspx Mon, 28 Dec 2009 23:04:46 GMT <span class="postbody">A flash of inspiration... I found a smaller footprint output transformer I can use... so I created an Eagle part library for that. (Tip: use a digital caliper when creating part libraries) <br> <br> After some creative rearranging of parts, and I made this. <br> <br> This is just the motherboard. Measuring about 6" x 6". <br> <img src="http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2539/4223753900_549c009b20_o.gif" border="0"> <br> <br> Ch-check it out! <br> <br> 2 Input Transformers - <span style="font-weight: bold;">NEW FEATURE</span> <br> 2 Output Transformers - <span style="font-weight: bold;">NEW FEATURE</span> <br> Gain and Trim knob for each channel <br> 2 VU Meters <br> 4 Full size XLRs <br> Relay Controlled switching - <span style="font-weight: bold;">NEW FEATURE</span> <br> Bigger DC Converters - <span style="font-weight: bold;">NEW FEATURE</span> <br> ... and better PCB layout by re-arranging parts. <br> <br> Also, reduced the number of molex connectors from the original (7) to a single 10-pin Molex! That will be a big time-saver.... plus the use of PCB mounted XLR Neutrik Jacks. </span> <p> </p> <img width="0" height="0" src="http://www.diy-central.com/aggbug.ashx?id=c226e7b2-e13b-40c4-b414-a77e17bbc508" /> DC-DC Converter;DIY;PCB;TS-2 Preamp http://www.diy-central.com/Trackback.aspx?guid=ae288692-c5eb-43f0-b911-bf0bf818ca44 http://www.diy-central.com/pingback.aspx http://www.diy-central.com/PermaLink,guid,ae288692-c5eb-43f0-b911-bf0bf818ca44.aspx DIY-Central.com Administrator The TS-2 has been getting some traction recently... and I'm thinking maybe it's time to revisit this product again and do a Revision B.

The first TS-2 design was very good, and I love the sound of it! (Of course, it's based on the SC-1mk500 and SC-1mk2 preamps, but in a smaller form factor.)

But assembling a single TS-2 unit takes up a lot of time/manpower and with the small profit I have on each unit, it's a losing proposition. I'd come out ahead if I DON'T build a TS-2!

So to fix this problem, I'd need to raise TS-2 prices, or reduce my production cost, or a little bit of both. For now, I'm going to concentrate on reducing production cost. With today's economy, it may not be smart to raise prices (unless that price increase brings with it additional features that the original TS-2 didn't have.)

Question: So what can I do to reduce production cost?
Answer: Reduce the time/manpower to build a TS-2 unit.

Question: How can I reduce time to build a TS-2 unit?
Answer: Good question...

I'm thinking of several possibilities.
1. Through automation. Using SMD parts and pick and place machines. Ask a manufacturer to build the boards for me.

Cons: A little on the expensive side, and requires a lot of capital. I think 100 boards is the minimum. Assuming it will cost $50 per board assembly fee, 100pcs is a staggering $5000!

And I doubt it will cost only $50 per board... maybe closer to $100. And that's just the labor. The cost of parts for 100 boards is not included yet.

2. Minimize "wiring". Yes, soldering wires to the PCB board and connectors, and jacks take a lot of time. So if we can get rid of "flying wires", then that will reduce a lot of time and labor. So as much as possible, use PCB mounted jacks, switches, LEDs, etc... everything should be soldered to the PCB. No more hookup wires, if I can avoid it!



3. Reduce the number of PCBs. Right now, the original TS-2 preamp has 4 PCBs. A motherboard and a switchboard, and 2 VU meter PCBs.
That's a lot! And of course, there are hookup wires to connect all 4 PCBs to each other (see #2 above). So I need to reduce the number of boards required to build a TS-2.



I've upgraded my PCB design software last year, to allow me to make the bigger boards. Unfortunately, the TS-2 board design was prior to my software upgrade.

Now, with the ability to make bigger boards, I think I'll be able to combine more functions in a single board.

We've got plenty of real estate space FREE!



What else...

Revision B will also give the user the option to have INPUT TRANSFORMERS! So that will be cool! Maybe even add a switch to bypass Input Transformer. Hmmm... I'm getting too far ahead here.

So that's my goal.... redesign the TS-2 preamp to minimize wiring, combine more functionality in a single board, and add some new features.

Portable Preamp TS-2 Redesign http://www.diy-central.com/PermaLink,guid,ae288692-c5eb-43f0-b911-bf0bf818ca44.aspx http://www.diy-central.com/PortablePreampTS2Redesign.aspx Thu, 17 Dec 2009 14:16:09 GMT <span class="postbody">The TS-2 has been getting some traction recently... and I'm thinking maybe it's time to revisit this product again and do a Revision B. <br> <br> The first TS-2 design was very good, and I love the sound of it! (Of course, it's based on the SC-1mk500 and SC-1mk2 preamps, but in a smaller form factor.) <br> <br> But assembling a single TS-2 unit takes up a lot of time/manpower and with the small profit I have on each unit, it's a losing proposition. I'd come out ahead if I DON'T build a TS-2! <br> <br> So to fix this problem, I'd need to raise TS-2 prices, or reduce my production cost, or a little bit of both. For now, I'm going to concentrate on reducing production cost. With today's economy, it may not be smart to raise prices (unless that price increase brings with it additional features that the original TS-2 didn't have.) <br> <br> Question: So what can I do to reduce production cost? <br> Answer: Reduce the time/manpower to build a TS-2 unit. <br> <br> Question: How can I reduce time to build a TS-2 unit? <br> Answer: Good question... <br> <br> I'm thinking of several possibilities. <br> 1. Through automation. Using SMD parts and pick and place machines. Ask a manufacturer to build the boards for me. <br> <br> Cons: A little on the expensive side, and requires a lot of capital. I think 100 boards is the minimum. Assuming it will cost $50 per board assembly fee, 100pcs is a staggering $5000! <br> <br> And I doubt it will cost only $50 per board... maybe closer to $100. And that's just the labor. The cost of parts for 100 boards is not included yet. <br> <br> 2. Minimize "wiring". Yes, soldering wires to the PCB board and connectors, and jacks take a lot of time. So if we can get rid of "flying wires", then that will reduce a lot of time and labor. So as much as possible, use PCB mounted jacks, switches, LEDs, etc... everything should be soldered to the PCB. No more hookup wires, if I can avoid it! <br> <br> <img src="http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3019/2932848457_b3b38b1a8f_o.jpg" border="0"> <br> <br> 3. Reduce the number of PCBs. Right now, the original TS-2 preamp has 4 PCBs. A motherboard and a switchboard, and 2 VU meter PCBs. <br> That's a lot! And of course, there are hookup wires to connect all 4 PCBs to each other (see #2 above). So I need to reduce the number of boards required to build a TS-2. <br> <br> <img src="http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3061/2932848787_c5378b62e7_o.jpg" border="0"> <br> <br> I've upgraded my PCB design software last year, to allow me to make the bigger boards. Unfortunately, the TS-2 board design was prior to my software upgrade. <br> <br> Now, with the ability to make bigger boards, I think I'll be able to combine more functions in a single board. <br> <br> We've got plenty of real estate space FREE! <br> <br> <img src="http://www.fivefishstudios.com/ffimages/PCBDesign-Preamp.jpg" border="0"> <br> <br> What else... <br> <br> Revision B will also give the user the option to have INPUT TRANSFORMERS! So that will be cool! Maybe even add a switch to bypass Input Transformer. Hmmm... I'm getting too far ahead here. <br> <br> So that's my goal.... redesign the TS-2 preamp to minimize wiring, combine more functionality in a single board, and add some new features. <br> </span> <p> </p> <img width="0" height="0" src="http://www.diy-central.com/aggbug.ashx?id=ae288692-c5eb-43f0-b911-bf0bf818ca44" /> DIY;PCB;Power Supply;TS-2 Preamp ;Portable http://www.diy-central.com/Trackback.aspx?guid=a9af5f74-9c5d-4729-ab3b-3816f7ebea96 http://www.diy-central.com/pingback.aspx http://www.diy-central.com/PermaLink,guid,a9af5f74-9c5d-4729-ab3b-3816f7ebea96.aspx DIY-Central.com Administrator My parts arrived for my TS-2 prototype. I ordered the parts so I can judge their quality and size, get dimensions and pin spacings so I can create Eagle part libraries for it.

I Found a 4-LED vertical, PCB mount, Right-Angle part. I think I'll use this for the VU meters for the new TS-2RevB. I wish it was a 5-LED device, but 4 will do.

Also, I'm beefing up the DC-DC converter. It only cost a few dollars more than my previous converter, and a big step up in power, so why not? Plus, I have the real-estate board space for it.

The 48V section DC-DC converter is home-grown, developed here in FFS Lab. That will remain unchanged. I think I'll just add some overvoltage protection.

Larger filtering caps will be added too.... again, thanks to the bigger board space.

I'm thinking of adding relays for polarity reverse functions, but a non-latching relay will be consuming power while engaged, and that will be a drain on the battery. A better solution is to use latching relays (they only consume power when changing states), but controlling those will be more complicated than a simple relay. So this is still up in the air.... or maybe I should just get rid of the polarity switch? < what do you think? >

On the original TS-2, there is a switch to turn on/off the VU meters to conserve battery power. What if this switch is instead used as a High Pass filter? Then again, this will be another relay to control. ... which will affect power consumption, etc... Plus, a single switch will be controlling 2 HPF channels? That doesn't sound right.

The compromise decision making process is driving me nuts.

TS-2 Mic Preamp Redesign http://www.diy-central.com/PermaLink,guid,a9af5f74-9c5d-4729-ab3b-3816f7ebea96.aspx http://www.diy-central.com/TS2MicPreampRedesign.aspx Wed, 16 Dec 2009 23:41:57 GMT <span class="postbody">My parts arrived for my TS-2 prototype. I ordered the parts so I can judge their quality and size, get dimensions and pin spacings so I can create Eagle part libraries for it. <br> <br> I Found a 4-LED vertical, PCB mount, Right-Angle part. I think I'll use this for the VU meters for the new TS-2RevB. I wish it was a 5-LED device, but 4 will do. <br> <br> Also, I'm beefing up the DC-DC converter. It only cost a few dollars more than my previous converter, and a big step up in power, so why not? Plus, I have the real-estate board space for it. <br> <br> The 48V section DC-DC converter is home-grown, developed here in FFS Lab. That will remain unchanged. I think I'll just add some overvoltage protection. <br> <br> Larger filtering caps will be added too.... again, thanks to the bigger board space. <br> <br> I'm thinking of adding relays for polarity reverse functions, but a non-latching relay will be consuming power while engaged, and that will be a drain on the battery. A better solution is to use latching relays (they only consume power when changing states), but controlling those will be more complicated than a simple relay. So this is still up in the air.... or maybe I should just get rid of the polarity switch? &lt; what do you think? &gt; <br> <br> On the original TS-2, there is a switch to turn on/off the VU meters to conserve battery power. What if this switch is instead used as a High Pass filter? Then again, this will be another relay to control. ... which will affect power consumption, etc... Plus, a single switch will be controlling 2 HPF channels? That doesn't sound right. <br> <br> The compromise decision making process is driving me nuts.</span> <p> </p> <img width="0" height="0" src="http://www.diy-central.com/aggbug.ashx?id=a9af5f74-9c5d-4729-ab3b-3816f7ebea96" /> PCB;TS-2 Preamp http://www.diy-central.com/Trackback.aspx?guid=a05111b7-0f9c-4344-9a64-b8d10819b211 http://www.diy-central.com/pingback.aspx http://www.diy-central.com/PermaLink,guid,a05111b7-0f9c-4344-9a64-b8d10819b211.aspx DIY-Central.com Administrator Last October, I held a sale of my X-12mk500 preamps.
 http://fivefishstudios.com/index.php/X-12mk500-Mic-Preamp-Kit.html

These are some of the units that went out to customers... <drool>

Thanks to all my customers that support FiveFish Studios DIY Mic Preamp kits.
Some photos:


from another angle

FiveFishStudios - X-12mk500 Lunchbox (API 500 Series) Preamps http://www.diy-central.com/PermaLink,guid,a05111b7-0f9c-4344-9a64-b8d10819b211.aspx http://www.diy-central.com/FiveFishStudiosX12mk500LunchboxAPI500SeriesPreamps.aspx Mon, 30 Nov 2009 14:41:57 GMT Last October, I held a sale of my X-12mk500 preamps. <br> &nbsp;<a href="http://fivefishstudios.com/index.php/X-12mk500-Mic-Preamp-Kit.html">http://fivefishstudios.com/index.php/X-12mk500-Mic-Preamp-Kit.html</a> <br> <br> These are some of the units that went out to customers... &lt;drool&gt;<br> <br> Thanks to all my customers that support FiveFish Studios DIY Mic Preamp kits. <br> <span class="postbody">Some photos: <br> <img src="http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2539/4104195126_88c71a2626_o.jpg" border="0"> <br> <br> from another angle <br> <img src="http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2733/4103434277_86ac5b2cd5_o.jpg" border="0"></span> <p> </p> <img width="0" height="0" src="http://www.diy-central.com/aggbug.ashx?id=a05111b7-0f9c-4344-9a64-b8d10819b211" /> 500 Series Preamp;API Preamp;DIY;PCB;Project Kits;X-12 Mic Preamp Kit http://www.diy-central.com/Trackback.aspx?guid=465f11d4-5ba2-458f-a704-7b80f1d72151 http://www.diy-central.com/pingback.aspx http://www.diy-central.com/PermaLink,guid,465f11d4-5ba2-458f-a704-7b80f1d72151.aspx DIY-Central.com Administrator

Lunchbox pres racked in a 1u case

 Just a test.... Smile checking clearances, and how the whole thing will look.

The real deal will be a setup for (2) X-12 pres.

update:



Finished X-12 preamp, 2 channel in a 1u rack.




check it out... We now have audio samples of the X-12 Mic Preamp.

http://fivefishstudios.com/index.php/Audio-Samples.html

Special thanks to Farview Recording (Jay Walsh) and Jason Mallow. You guys ROCK! Also thanks to Madison Rhoades for the vocal clips.

Check out the Servant song... all tracks recorded through an X-12 Mic Preamp.

X-12 Preamps in a 1u rack case. http://www.diy-central.com/PermaLink,guid,465f11d4-5ba2-458f-a704-7b80f1d72151.aspx http://www.diy-central.com/X12PreampsInA1uRackCase.aspx Fri, 02 Oct 2009 03:49:22 GMT <span class="postbody"><img src="http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3386/3471904678_e91493660a_o.jpg" border="0"> <br> <br> Lunchbox pres racked in a 1u case<br> <br> </span><span class="postbody">Just a test.... <img src="http://fivefishstudios.com/forum/images/smiles/icon_smile.gif" alt="Smile" border="0"> checking clearances, and how the whole thing will look. <br> <br> The real deal will be a setup for (2) X-12 pres.</span> <br> <br> update: <br> <br> <span class="postbody"><img src="http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2478/3649789264_a64b9d159e_o.jpg" border="0"> <br> <br> Finished X-12 preamp, 2 channel in a 1u rack.<br> <br> </span><span class="postbody"><img src="http://www.fivefishstudios.com/ffimages/munoz3.jpg" border="0"> <br> <br> <img src="http://www.fivefishstudios.com/ffimages/munoz4.jpg" border="0"></span> <br> <span class="postbody">check it out... We now have audio samples of the X-12 Mic Preamp. <br> <br> <a href="http://www.micpreampkit.com/ct.ashx?id=fc218d77-dc20-49e5-a40d-c1f9d805e45a&amp;url=http%3a%2f%2ffivefishstudios.com%2findex.php%2fAudio-Samples.html" target="_blank">http://fivefishstudios.com/index.php/Audio-Samples.html</a> <br> <br> Special thanks to Farview Recording (Jay Walsh) and Jason Mallow. You guys ROCK! Also thanks to Madison Rhoades for the vocal clips. <br> <br> Check out the Servant song... all tracks recorded through an X-12 Mic Preamp.</span> <p> </p> <img width="0" height="0" src="http://www.diy-central.com/aggbug.ashx?id=465f11d4-5ba2-458f-a704-7b80f1d72151" /> DIY;PCB;Power Supply;Project Kits;X-12 Mic Preamp Kit http://www.diy-central.com/Trackback.aspx?guid=52075e1f-8da6-4403-b32b-745aabda7749 http://www.diy-central.com/pingback.aspx http://www.diy-central.com/PermaLink,guid,52075e1f-8da6-4403-b32b-745aabda7749.aspx DIY-Central.com Administrator

SC-1mk500 Lunchbox pres racked in a 1u case. If there are any interests in this configuration, email me at info@fivefishstudios.com

SC-1 Lunchbox preamps racked in a 1u case http://www.diy-central.com/PermaLink,guid,52075e1f-8da6-4403-b32b-745aabda7749.aspx http://www.diy-central.com/SC1LunchboxPreampsRackedInA1uCase.aspx Fri, 24 Apr 2009 14:26:24 GMT <span class="postbody"><img src="http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3386/3471904678_e91493660a_o.jpg" border="0"> <br> <br> SC-1mk500 Lunchbox pres racked in a 1u case. If there are any interests in this configuration, email me at <a href="mailto:info@fivefishstudios.com">info@fivefishstudios.com</a> <br> </span> <p> </p> <img width="0" height="0" src="http://www.diy-central.com/aggbug.ashx?id=52075e1f-8da6-4403-b32b-745aabda7749" /> DIY;PCB;Project Kits;SC-1 Preamp Kit http://www.diy-central.com/Trackback.aspx?guid=7574e1ca-2e8b-468b-b5e4-ec791a5db654 http://www.diy-central.com/pingback.aspx http://www.diy-central.com/PermaLink,guid,7574e1ca-2e8b-468b-b5e4-ec791a5db654.aspx DIY-Central.com Administrator More photos showing discrete opamps installed on the board. You don't need to desolder the 8pin IC socket. Just install the MillMax sockets and the discrete opamp will install with enough cleareance above the IC socket. (You'd need to remove the PDIP8 IC chip.)

with a JFET-992


with APP2050 (Made in Italy)


with APP10 (Made in Italy)

X-12 Mic Preamp with Discrete OpAmps 2520 style http://www.diy-central.com/PermaLink,guid,7574e1ca-2e8b-468b-b5e4-ec791a5db654.aspx http://www.diy-central.com/X12MicPreampWithDiscreteOpAmps2520Style.aspx Sun, 01 Mar 2009 15:24:17 GMT <span class="postbody">More photos showing discrete opamps installed on the board. You don't need to desolder the 8pin IC socket. Just install the MillMax sockets and the discrete opamp will install with enough cleareance above the IC socket. (You'd need to remove the PDIP8 IC chip.)<br> <br> with a JFET-992<br> <img style="width: 670px; height: 515px;" src="http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3562/3320662474_42f85b7576_o.jpg" border="0"> <br> <br> with APP2050 (Made in Italy)<br> <img style="width: 670px; height: 541px;" src="http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3595/3320662372_5c0c18072c_o.jpg" border="0"> <br> <br> with APP10 (Made in Italy)<br> <img style="width: 670px; height: 506px;" src="http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3574/3320662288_43ef585588_o.jpg" border="0"></span> <p> </p> <img width="0" height="0" src="http://www.diy-central.com/aggbug.ashx?id=7574e1ca-2e8b-468b-b5e4-ec791a5db654" /> API Preamp;DIY;PCB;X-12 Mic Preamp Kit http://www.diy-central.com/Trackback.aspx?guid=b9278421-6555-4a02-85fc-22619d43767f http://www.diy-central.com/pingback.aspx http://www.diy-central.com/PermaLink,guid,b9278421-6555-4a02-85fc-22619d43767f.aspx DIY-Central.com Administrator Image

This preamp was inspired by A certain Preamp Indeed!

But no, it's not a clone. Rather, I'd like to call it my FiveFish version :)

It uses input transformers with high-nickel and mumetal shielding, monolithic opamps and also has the option to use 990/992/2520 discrete opamps, null offset, output transformers, on-board voltage regulators, Relay-controlled -20dB Pads and Polarity Reverse, Soft-start phantom power, LED-lighted push button swithes, Grayhill selector switch, Bourns pot.

It uses a very very low distortion opamp chip for amplification, coupled to a high current, high-slew rate (2000V/us) video buffer driver subjecting that output transformer into submission.

The sound is huge and beefy... it will fight back when pushed hard, and slap you up and down silly to let you know who's boss... kinda like a rock n roll club bouncer.

(VU meter not shown in above photo, 5-LED VU Metering included in kit.)

X-12 Mic Preamp Kit http://www.diy-central.com/PermaLink,guid,b9278421-6555-4a02-85fc-22619d43767f.aspx http://www.diy-central.com/X12MicPreampKit.aspx Fri, 27 Feb 2009 15:22:44 GMT <img style="width: 584px; height: 473px;" src="http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3558/3315038044_8e121f1b90_o.jpg" alt="Image"> <br> <br> This preamp was inspired by <span style="font-weight: bold;"><span style="line-height: normal;">A</span></span> certain <span style="font-weight: bold;"><span style="line-height: normal;">P</span></span>reamp <span style="font-weight: bold;"><span style="line-height: normal;">I</span></span>ndeed!<br> <br> But no, it's not a clone. Rather, I'd like to call it my FiveFish version <img src="http://studio-central.com/phpbb/images/smilies/icon_smile.gif" alt=":)" title="Smile"> <br> <br> It uses input transformers with high-nickel and mumetal shielding, monolithic opamps and also has the option to use 990/992/2520 discrete opamps, null offset, output transformers, on-board voltage regulators, Relay-controlled -20dB Pads and Polarity Reverse, Soft-start phantom power, LED-lighted push button swithes, Grayhill selector switch, Bourns pot.<br> <br> It uses a very very low distortion opamp chip for amplification, coupled to a high current, high-slew rate (2000V/us) video buffer driver subjecting that output transformer into submission.<br> <br> The sound is huge and beefy... it will fight back when pushed hard, and slap you up and down silly to let you know who's boss... kinda like a rock n roll club bouncer.<br> <br> (VU meter not shown in above photo, 5-LED VU Metering included in kit.) <p> </p> <img width="0" height="0" src="http://www.diy-central.com/aggbug.ashx?id=b9278421-6555-4a02-85fc-22619d43767f" /> API Preamp;DIY;PCB;X-12 Mic Preamp Kit http://www.diy-central.com/Trackback.aspx?guid=8e73ae3d-09eb-44bc-b9ca-b28cc62d8939 http://www.diy-central.com/pingback.aspx http://www.diy-central.com/PermaLink,guid,8e73ae3d-09eb-44bc-b9ca-b28cc62d8939.aspx DIY-Central.com Administrator Just finished this unit for a customer... 4 channels of transformer goodness!





SC-1mk2 with Cinemag Input Transformers, 1u 4-channel http://www.diy-central.com/PermaLink,guid,8e73ae3d-09eb-44bc-b9ca-b28cc62d8939.aspx http://www.diy-central.com/SC1mk2WithCinemagInputTransformers1u4channel.aspx Tue, 24 Feb 2009 15:32:26 GMT <span class="postbody">Just finished this unit for a customer... 4 channels of transformer goodness! <br> <br> <img src="http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3527/3308127348_60bdec7770_o.jpg" border="0"> <br> <br> <img src="http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3554/3308127448_753e9e9c0f.jpg" border="0"> <br> <br> <img src="http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3563/3308375818_401860408d_o.jpg" border="0"></span> <p> </p> <img width="0" height="0" src="http://www.diy-central.com/aggbug.ashx?id=8e73ae3d-09eb-44bc-b9ca-b28cc62d8939" /> PCB;Power Supply;Project Kits;SC-1 Preamp Kit http://www.diy-central.com/Trackback.aspx?guid=3d7037f7-bed2-4f33-8452-ec910e1a12d4 http://www.diy-central.com/pingback.aspx http://www.diy-central.com/PermaLink,guid,3d7037f7-bed2-4f33-8452-ec910e1a12d4.aspx DIY-Central.com Administrator What looks better? I can't decide. Help me.

The white paint fill "pops out"... and is very clear and bright. But seems drab and lacks personality.

The yellow has "personality" and not boring like white. But I'm not sure if I like the yellow.

These are Testors model paint by the way.

White vs Yellow fill paint http://www.diy-central.com/PermaLink,guid,3d7037f7-bed2-4f33-8452-ec910e1a12d4.aspx http://www.diy-central.com/WhiteVsYellowFillPaint.aspx Sat, 20 Dec 2008 15:30:14 GMT <span class="postbody">What looks better? I can't decide. Help me. <br> <br> The white paint fill "pops out"... and is very clear and bright. But seems drab and lacks personality. <br> <br> The yellow has "personality" and not boring like white. But I'm not sure if I like the yellow. <br> <br> These are Testors model paint by the way. <br> <br> <img src="http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3243/3122215608_1537c7c142_o.jpg" border="0"></span> <p> </p> <img width="0" height="0" src="http://www.diy-central.com/aggbug.ashx?id=3d7037f7-bed2-4f33-8452-ec910e1a12d4" /> 500 Series Preamp;DIY;Lunchbox Preamp;PCB;SC-1 Preamp Kit http://www.diy-central.com/Trackback.aspx?guid=d776a8c1-b49d-4568-878e-365e5724cae5 http://www.diy-central.com/pingback.aspx http://www.diy-central.com/PermaLink,guid,d776a8c1-b49d-4568-878e-365e5724cae5.aspx DIY-Central.com Administrator SC1-mk2 Mic Preamp Kit


Now, with optional Input Transformer option!
Improved design, improved performance, design refinements.
Uses the same "footprint" as the original SC-1, so you can use this new kit in our 1u SC-1 Rack Case.
Have 2 channels of clean/uncolored preamp and 2 channels of "flavored" preamp
Local PSU regulation for a 2nd-level filtering of power supply.
DC Servo, Dual Buffered design
THAT and Burr-Brown chips
Using uMetal shielded Input Transformer for excellent magnetic shielding
6dB gain steps in the lower range, and 4db gain steps in the upper range for more precise control
Using standard 0.1" pitch pads for power and XLR connections, Molex 0.1" compatible
Bourns, conductive plastic potentiometers
Grayhill, mil-spec selector switches
0.079" thick PCB with 2 oz. copper, Solder mask, silkscreen, plated-through holes, Lead-free Rohs

More ordering choices, more package deal combinations for better discount!
Flexible ordering with or without PSU, Rack Case, Input Transformers, etc... to fit your DIY budget.

More photos:

NEW SC-1mk2 Mic Preamp Kit with Input Transformers http://www.diy-central.com/PermaLink,guid,d776a8c1-b49d-4568-878e-365e5724cae5.aspx http://www.diy-central.com/NEWSC1mk2MicPreampKitWithInputTransformers.aspx Sun, 16 Nov 2008 15:33:29 GMT <span class="postbody"><span style="font-size: 18px; line-height: normal;"><span style="color: rgb(191, 0, 0);"><span style="font-weight: bold;">SC1-mk2 Mic Preamp Kit</span></span></span> <br> <img src="http://www.fivefish.net/diy/sc1/images/SC-1mk2.jpg" border="0"> <br> <br> Now, with optional Input Transformer option! <br> Improved design, improved performance, design refinements. <br> Uses the same "footprint" as the original SC-1, so you can use this new kit in our 1u SC-1 Rack Case. <br> Have 2 channels of clean/uncolored preamp and 2 channels of "flavored" preamp <br> Local PSU regulation for a 2nd-level filtering of power supply. <br> DC Servo, Dual Buffered design <br> THAT and Burr-Brown chips <br> Using uMetal shielded Input Transformer for excellent magnetic shielding <br> 6dB gain steps in the lower range, and 4db gain steps in the upper range for more precise control <br> Using standard 0.1" pitch pads for power and XLR connections, Molex 0.1" compatible <br> Bourns, conductive plastic potentiometers <br> Grayhill, mil-spec selector switches <br> 0.079" thick PCB with 2 oz. copper, Solder mask, silkscreen, plated-through holes, Lead-free Rohs <br> <br> More ordering choices, more package deal combinations for better discount! <br> Flexible ordering with or without PSU, Rack Case, Input Transformers, etc... to fit your DIY budget. <br> <br> <span style="font-weight: bold;">More photos:</span> <br> <img src="http://www.fivefish.net/diy/sc1/images/SC1mk2-micpreamp5.jpg" border="0"> <br> <br> <img src="http://www.fivefish.net/diy/sc1/images/SC1mk2-micpreamp3.jpg" border="0"> <br> <br> <img src="http://www.fivefish.net/diy/sc1/images/SC1mk2-micpreamp1.jpg" border="0"> <br> <br> <img src="http://www.fivefish.net/diy/sc1/images/SC1mk2-micpreamp2.jpg" border="0"> <br> <br> <img src="http://www.fivefish.net/diy/sc1/images/SC1mk2-micpreamp6.jpg" border="0"></span> <p> </p> <img width="0" height="0" src="http://www.diy-central.com/aggbug.ashx?id=d776a8c1-b49d-4568-878e-365e5724cae5" /> DIY;PCB;Project Kits;SC-1 Preamp Kit http://www.diy-central.com/Trackback.aspx?guid=36bace39-7380-466b-8417-36ca4def78a6 http://www.diy-central.com/pingback.aspx http://www.diy-central.com/PermaLink,guid,36bace39-7380-466b-8417-36ca4def78a6.aspx DIY-Central.com Administrator So hooked up my battery and 2 condenser mics to the pre... turn on power, turn on phantom for both channels, and recorded the VU meter "in action"...

Note: The audio in the video was recorded by the camera.

Youtube video here. (Make sure to watch in high quality mode and view the annotations.)



Enjoy!

TS-2 Mic Preamp Prototype http://www.diy-central.com/PermaLink,guid,36bace39-7380-466b-8417-36ca4def78a6.aspx http://www.diy-central.com/TS2MicPreampPrototype.aspx Tue, 19 Aug 2008 05:57:23 GMT <span class="postbody">So hooked up my battery and 2 condenser mics to the pre... turn on power, turn on phantom for both channels, and recorded the VU meter "in action"... <br> <br> Note: The audio in the video was recorded by the camera. <br> <br> Youtube video here. (Make sure to watch in high quality mode and view the annotations.) <br> <br> <a href="http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=U-f47Z2khns" target="_blank" class="postlink"><img src="http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3281/2779266155_888114fd33.jpg" border="0"></a> <br> <br> Enjoy!</span> <p> </p> <img width="0" height="0" src="http://www.diy-central.com/aggbug.ashx?id=36bace39-7380-466b-8417-36ca4def78a6" /> DIY;PCB;TS-2 Preamp http://www.diy-central.com/Trackback.aspx?guid=0eb72dbd-156f-4298-b63f-af36573038a5 http://www.diy-central.com/pingback.aspx http://www.diy-central.com/PermaLink,guid,0eb72dbd-156f-4298-b63f-af36573038a5.aspx DIY-Central.com Administrator Newly redesigned, improved, PSU-4448mk2 Kit!

Now, both rails are adjustable via onboard trimmers for that 100% perfect voltage setting.
Also two on-board LEDs... which you can wire to your front panel to use as a POWER ON indicator.
100% more filtering. More capacitors for ripple filtering.
Standard 0.1" pad spacing so you can use standard 0.1" headers.



New PSU-4448mk2 Power Supply Kit for Yamaha PM1000 modules (adjustable output voltages) http://www.diy-central.com/PermaLink,guid,0eb72dbd-156f-4298-b63f-af36573038a5.aspx http://www.diy-central.com/NewPSU4448mk2PowerSupplyKitForYamahaPM1000ModulesAdjustableOutputVoltages.aspx Thu, 07 Aug 2008 18:57:06 GMT <span class="postbody">Newly redesigned, improved, PSU-4448mk2 Kit! <br> <br> Now, both rails are adjustable via onboard trimmers for that 100% perfect voltage setting. <br> Also two on-board LEDs... which you can wire to your front panel to use as a POWER ON indicator. <br> 100% more filtering. More capacitors for ripple filtering. <br> Standard 0.1" pad spacing so you can use standard 0.1" headers. <br> <br> <img src="http://www.fivefish.net/diy/psu4448/images/psu-4448mk2-topview.jpg" border="0"> <br> <br> <img src="http://www.fivefish.net/diy/psu4448/images/psu-4448mk2-profile.jpg" border="0"></span> <p> </p> <img width="0" height="0" src="http://www.diy-central.com/aggbug.ashx?id=0eb72dbd-156f-4298-b63f-af36573038a5" /> DIY;PCB;Project Kits;Yamaha PM1000 http://www.diy-central.com/Trackback.aspx?guid=906171f3-a314-4f85-a8bb-98f97ae35996 http://www.diy-central.com/pingback.aspx http://www.diy-central.com/PermaLink,guid,906171f3-a314-4f85-a8bb-98f97ae35996.aspx DIY-Central.com Administrator Finally finished one channel and did some testing.... THE MOMENT OF TRUTH is coming! Will it work or not???

Woohoooo!!!!! YES! SmileSmileSmile

At first I wasn't getting any signal and was in a bit of panic... I'm thinking "oh no... what did I do wrong?"

Told myself I need to calm down and re-check everything step by step. Found out I have a loose connection since everything is just temporarily affixed with tape and alligator clips. Secured that connection and now we have continuity.

Device Under Test
Working properly and great.... and powered from a 12VDC power source, wall wart or battery.


Then I heard music... coming from my signal source... YES! It works and passes signal. Sounds good too! Pretty stoked about it. Check the gain settings, it works... check the trim, it works. I tested it with a line level input and an SM57 dynamic mic, and yes, sounds great. I haven't tested it yet with condenser mics since I don't have the switchboard hooked up yet... (the switchboard has the 48V phantom power converter).

After an hour of music listening, hooked it up to my signal gen and oscilloscope to see out how things are.

Check it out... here's the square wave response at 1Khz. Notice how clean and sharp the square wave response is... no ringing, oscillations or instability at either the rising and falling edges!

Square Wave Response 1Khz
Super sharp square wave response. Nice audio quality.


Did some output measurements while we're at it... how high an output can we go before clipping or instability. I'm not expecting it to be high (like +27/28dBu) since we're not using high supply voltages here, just a DC-DC converter PSU... but let's see what can we get...

Not bad.... not bad at all. Some readings....

15Hz @ 32Vpp = +23 dBu
20Hz @ 35.6Vpp = +24dBu
1Khz @ 37.7Vpp = +24.7 dBu
22Khz @ 31.1Vpp = +23dBu
100Khz @ 24.4Vpp = +20dBu
200Khz @ 14.65Vpp = +16.5dBu

Output waveform at 100Khz.



What's the Next Step?

Build the 2nd channel on the TS-2 preamp board, then test together the Motherboard and Switchboard...
Metalwork/CNC for the case, verify measurements and hole locations

So far, I'm pretty pleased with how everything is working out, from concept and design on paper, to CAD, to a working prototype.

TS-2 Prototype Working!!! http://www.diy-central.com/PermaLink,guid,906171f3-a314-4f85-a8bb-98f97ae35996.aspx http://www.diy-central.com/TS2PrototypeWorking.aspx Mon, 28 Jul 2008 05:58:31 GMT <span class="postbody">Finally finished one channel and did some testing.... THE MOMENT OF TRUTH is coming! Will it work or not??? <br> <br> Woohoooo!!!!! YES! <img src="http://fivefishstudios.com/forum/images/smiles/icon_smile.gif" alt="Smile" border="0"> <img src="http://fivefishstudios.com/forum/images/smiles/icon_smile.gif" alt="Smile" border="0"> <img src="http://fivefishstudios.com/forum/images/smiles/icon_smile.gif" alt="Smile" border="0"> <br> <br> At first I wasn't getting any signal and was in a bit of panic... I'm thinking "oh no... what did I do wrong?" <br> <br> Told myself I need to calm down and re-check everything step by step. Found out I have a loose connection since everything is just temporarily affixed with tape and alligator clips. Secured that connection and now we have continuity. <br> <br> <span style="font-weight: bold;">Device Under Test</span> <br> Working properly and great.... and powered from a 12VDC power source, wall wart or battery. <br> <img src="http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3037/2708598786_a5db5d037b_o.jpg" border="0"> <br> <br> Then I heard music... coming from my signal source... YES! It works and passes signal. Sounds good too! Pretty stoked about it. Check the gain settings, it works... check the trim, it works. I tested it with a line level input and an SM57 dynamic mic, and yes, sounds great. I haven't tested it yet with condenser mics since I don't have the switchboard hooked up yet... (the switchboard has the 48V phantom power converter). <br> <br> After an hour of music listening, hooked it up to my signal gen and oscilloscope to see out how things are. <br> <br> Check it out... here's the square wave response at 1Khz. Notice how clean and sharp the square wave response is... no ringing, oscillations or instability at either the rising and falling edges! <br> <br> <span style="font-weight: bold;">Square Wave Response 1Khz</span> <br> Super sharp square wave response. Nice audio quality. <br> <img src="http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3068/2707780857_5349d87c0c_o.jpg" border="0"> <br> <br> Did some output measurements while we're at it... how high an output can we go before clipping or instability. I'm not expecting it to be high (like +27/28dBu) since we're not using high supply voltages here, just a DC-DC converter PSU... but let's see what can we get... <br> <br> Not bad.... not bad at all. Some readings.... <br> <br> 15Hz @ 32Vpp = +23 dBu <br> 20Hz @ 35.6Vpp = +24dBu <br> 1Khz @ 37.7Vpp = +24.7 dBu <br> 22Khz @ 31.1Vpp = +23dBu <br> 100Khz @ 24.4Vpp = +20dBu <br> 200Khz @ 14.65Vpp = +16.5dBu <br> <br> <span style="font-weight: bold;">Output waveform at 100Khz.</span> <br> <img src="http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3168/2707839339_13c6c2fe2e_o.jpg" border="0"> <br> <br> <br> <span style="font-weight: bold;">What's the Next Step?</span> <br> <br> Build the 2nd channel on the TS-2 preamp board, then test together the Motherboard and Switchboard... <br> Metalwork/CNC for the case, verify measurements and hole locations <br> <br> So far, I'm pretty pleased with how everything is working out, from concept and design on paper, to CAD, to a working prototype.</span> <p> </p> <img width="0" height="0" src="http://www.diy-central.com/aggbug.ashx?id=906171f3-a314-4f85-a8bb-98f97ae35996" /> DIY;PCB;TS-2 Preamp http://www.diy-central.com/Trackback.aspx?guid=4a02567f-4fb8-41dc-8ca4-1d341a03740e http://www.diy-central.com/pingback.aspx http://www.diy-central.com/PermaLink,guid,4a02567f-4fb8-41dc-8ca4-1d341a03740e.aspx DIY-Central.com Administrator
Finally finished one channel and did some testing.... THE MOMENT OF TRUTH is coming! Will it work or not???

Woohoooo!!!!! YES!  GrinGrinGrin

At first I wasn't getting any signal and was in a bit of panic... I'm thinking "oh no... what did I do wrong?" 

Told myself I need to calm down and re-check everything step by step. Found out I have a loose connection since everything is just temporarily affixed with tape and alligator clips. Secured that connection and now we have continuity.

Device Under Test


Then I heard music... coming from my signal source... YES! It works and passes signal. Sounds good too! Pretty stoked about it.  Check the gain settings, it works... check the trim, it works.  I tested it with a line level input and an SM57 dynamic mic, and yes, sounds great.  I haven't tested it yet with condenser mics since I don't have the switchboard hooked up yet... (the switchboard has the 48V phantom power converter).

After an hour of music listening, hooked it up to my signal gen and oscilloscope to see out how things are. 

Check it out... here's the square wave response at 1Khz.  Notice how clean and sharp the square wave response is... no ringing, oscillations or instability at either the rising and falling edges!

Square Wave Response 1Khz


Did some output measurements while we're at it... how high an output can we go before clipping or instability. I'm not expecting it to be high (like +27/28dBu) since we're not using high supply voltages here, just a DC-DC converter PSU... but let's see what can we get...

Not bad.... not bad at all.  Some readings....

15Hz @ 32Vpp      = +23 dBu
20Hz @ 35.6Vpp   = +24dBu
1Khz @ 37.7Vpp    = +24.7 dBu
22Khz @ 31.1Vpp   = +23dBu
100Khz @ 24.4Vpp = +20dBu
200Khz @ 14.65Vpp = +16.5dBu

Output waveform at 100Khz.



What's the Next Step?

Build the 2nd channel on the TS-2 preamp board, then test together the Motherboard and Switchboard...
Metalwork/CNC for the case, verify measurements and hole locations
 
So far, I'm pretty pleased with how everything is working out, from concept and design on paper, to CAD, to a working prototype.
TS-2 Mic Preamp - Testing & Working! http://www.diy-central.com/PermaLink,guid,4a02567f-4fb8-41dc-8ca4-1d341a03740e.aspx http://www.diy-central.com/TS2MicPreampTestingWorking.aspx Mon, 28 Jul 2008 03:24:50 GMT <br> Finally finished one channel and did some testing.... THE MOMENT OF TRUTH is coming! Will it work or not??? <br> <br> Woohoooo!!!!! YES!&nbsp; <img src="http://www.taperssection.com/Smileys/throwback/grin.gif" alt="Grin" border="0"> <img src="http://www.taperssection.com/Smileys/throwback/grin.gif" alt="Grin" border="0"> <img src="http://www.taperssection.com/Smileys/throwback/grin.gif" alt="Grin" border="0"> <br> <br> At first I wasn't getting any signal and was in a bit of panic... I'm thinking "oh no... what did I do wrong?"&nbsp; <br> <br> Told myself I need to calm down and re-check everything step by step. Found out I have a loose connection since everything is just temporarily affixed with tape and alligator clips. Secured that connection and now we have continuity. <br> <br> <b>Device Under Test</b> <br> <img src="http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3037/2708598786_a5db5d037b_o.jpg" alt="" border="0"> <br> <br> Then I heard music... coming from my signal source... YES! It works and passes signal. Sounds good too! Pretty stoked about it.&nbsp; Check the gain settings, it works... check the trim, it works.&nbsp; I tested it with a line level input and an SM57 dynamic mic, and yes, sounds great.&nbsp; I haven't tested it yet with condenser mics since I don't have the switchboard hooked up yet... (the switchboard has the 48V phantom power converter). <br> <br> After an hour of music listening, hooked it up to my signal gen and oscilloscope to see out how things are.&nbsp; <br> <br> Check it out... here's the square wave response at 1Khz.&nbsp; Notice how clean and sharp the square wave response is... no ringing, oscillations or instability at either the rising and falling edges! <br> <br> <b>Square Wave Response 1Khz</b> <br> <img src="http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3068/2707780857_5349d87c0c_o.jpg" alt="" border="0"> <br> <br> Did some output measurements while we're at it... how high an output can we go before clipping or instability. I'm not expecting it to be high (like +27/28dBu) since we're not using high supply voltages here, just a DC-DC converter PSU... but let's see what can we get... <br> <br> Not bad.... not bad at all.&nbsp; Some readings....<br> <br> 15Hz @ 32Vpp&nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; = +23 dBu<br> 20Hz @ 35.6Vpp&nbsp; &nbsp;= +24dBu<br> 1Khz @ 37.7Vpp&nbsp; &nbsp; = +24.7 dBu<br> 22Khz @ 31.1Vpp&nbsp; &nbsp;= +23dBu<br> 100Khz @ 24.4Vpp = +20dBu<br> 200Khz @ 14.65Vpp = +16.5dBu <br> <br> <b>Output waveform at 100Khz.</b> <br> <img src="http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3168/2707839339_13c6c2fe2e_o.jpg" alt="" border="0"> <br> <br> <br> <b>What's the Next Step?</b> <br> <br> Build the 2nd channel on the TS-2 preamp board, then test together the Motherboard and Switchboard...<br> Metalwork/CNC for the case, verify measurements and hole locations<br> &nbsp;<br> So far, I'm pretty pleased with how everything is working out, from concept and design on paper, to CAD, to a working prototype. <br> <img width="0" height="0" src="http://www.diy-central.com/aggbug.ashx?id=4a02567f-4fb8-41dc-8ca4-1d341a03740e" /> DIY;PCB;TS-2 Preamp http://www.diy-central.com/Trackback.aspx?guid=e0d72a41-d030-4a74-900f-8095ffa25115 http://www.diy-central.com/pingback.aspx http://www.diy-central.com/PermaLink,guid,e0d72a41-d030-4a74-900f-8095ffa25115.aspx DIY-Central.com Administrator
Anyways... finally got some time tonight to do some work on the motherboard.

First, populated the PSU section to see if it works... yup, A.O.K.  (had to jumper the switch temporarily since the motherboard isn't hooked to the switchboard.)

So far so good, the switchboard, 48V section, and now the DC-DC section are all working fine.

Work done so far... all resistors, zeners and diodes stuffed.


Tomorrow after church service, I'll solder the caps, IC sockets, pots and switches and XLRs, then start testing.

TS-2 Mic Preamp - Motherboard http://www.diy-central.com/PermaLink,guid,e0d72a41-d030-4a74-900f-8095ffa25115.aspx http://www.diy-central.com/TS2MicPreampMotherboard.aspx Sun, 27 Jul 2008 03:24:01 GMT <br> Anyways... finally got some time tonight to do some work on the motherboard. <br> <br> First, populated the PSU section to see if it works... yup, A.O.K.&nbsp; (had to jumper the switch temporarily since the motherboard isn't hooked to the switchboard.) <br> <br> So far so good, the switchboard, 48V section, and now the DC-DC section are all working fine. <br> <br> Work done so far... all resistors, zeners and diodes stuffed. <br> <img src="http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3228/2705073075_844388bbdc_o.jpg" alt="" border="0"> <br> <br> Tomorrow after church service, I'll solder the caps, IC sockets, pots and switches and XLRs, then start testing.<br> <p> </p> <img width="0" height="0" src="http://www.diy-central.com/aggbug.ashx?id=e0d72a41-d030-4a74-900f-8095ffa25115" /> DIY;PCB;TS-2 Preamp http://www.diy-central.com/Trackback.aspx?guid=c6aa2ab2-594a-4752-ba78-21d0af1bdaee http://www.diy-central.com/pingback.aspx http://www.diy-central.com/PermaLink,guid,c6aa2ab2-594a-4752-ba78-21d0af1bdaee.aspx DIY-Central.com Administrator Built the TS-2 switchboard PCB, tested the 48V phantom power section and it works A.O.K!

LEDs will be mounted under the board.

I can already see a few minor changes to the board design... need to push the switches a bit more forward, maybe by 0.1"

The height clearance is perfect... about 1mm for the caps and about 2mm for the switches between these parts and the celing height of the case. Real tight... 

Again, here's the initial design that existed only on the computer.


And here it is, in real life Smiley  (with a few minor changes as you can see.)


Now, off to build the main motherboard.  Grin

TS-2 Mic Preamp - Switchboard Prototype http://www.diy-central.com/PermaLink,guid,c6aa2ab2-594a-4752-ba78-21d0af1bdaee.aspx http://www.diy-central.com/TS2MicPreampSwitchboardPrototype.aspx Sun, 27 Jul 2008 03:23:06 GMT Built the TS-2 switchboard PCB, tested the 48V phantom power section and it works A.O.K! <br> <br> LEDs will be mounted under the board. <br> <br> I can already see a few minor changes to the board design... need to push the switches a bit more forward, maybe by 0.1"<br> <br> The height clearance is perfect... about 1mm for the caps and about 2mm for the switches between these parts and the celing height of the case. Real tight...&nbsp; <br> <br> Again, here's the initial design that existed only on the computer.<br> <img src="http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3164/2608451055_17ff6990e9_o.jpg" alt="" border="0"> <br> <br> And here it is, in real life <img src="http://www.taperssection.com/Smileys/throwback/smiley.gif" alt="Smiley" border="0">&nbsp; (with a few minor changes as you can see.) <br> <img src="http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3144/2703527901_15433e5e03_o.jpg" alt="" border="0"> <br> <br> Now, off to build the main motherboard.&nbsp; <img src="http://www.taperssection.com/Smileys/throwback/grin.gif" alt="Grin" border="0"> <br> <p> </p> <img width="0" height="0" src="http://www.diy-central.com/aggbug.ashx?id=c6aa2ab2-594a-4752-ba78-21d0af1bdaee" /> DIY;PCB;TS-2 Preamp http://www.diy-central.com/Trackback.aspx?guid=36f53911-6a69-4b6c-9377-e473bbb6d96b http://www.diy-central.com/pingback.aspx http://www.diy-central.com/PermaLink,guid,36f53911-6a69-4b6c-9377-e473bbb6d96b.aspx DIY-Central.com Administrator UPDATED:

New prototype boards came in today... wohoo!


Let's do some test fittings...

The (2) VU Meters


and oh yeah.... 2 input transformers.


This is the switchboard...


A preview of things to come...


Next step: Build a prototype using these new boards and see if it works.

TS-2 Mic Preamp Prototype PCBs http://www.diy-central.com/PermaLink,guid,36f53911-6a69-4b6c-9377-e473bbb6d96b.aspx http://www.diy-central.com/TS2MicPreampPrototypePCBs.aspx Thu, 24 Jul 2008 03:21:03 GMT UPDATED:<br> <br> New prototype boards came in today... wohoo!<br> <br> <img src="http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3224/2696250717_538ea4129b_o.jpg" alt="" border="0"> <br> Let's do some test fittings... <br> <br> The (2) VU Meters<br> <br> <img src="http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3075/2696250865_7c0a8e0d37_o.jpg" alt="" border="0"> <br> and oh yeah.... 2 input transformers.<br> <br> <img src="http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3045/2697065830_d5c7b51997_o.jpg" alt="" border="0"> <br> This is the switchboard...<br> <br> <img src="http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3198/2696250991_b2b279b01b_o.jpg" alt="" border="0"> <br> A preview of things to come...<br> <br> <img src="http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3178/2697065676_007817b174_o.jpg" alt="" border="0"> <br> Next step: Build a prototype using these new boards and see if it works. <br> <p> </p> <img width="0" height="0" src="http://www.diy-central.com/aggbug.ashx?id=36f53911-6a69-4b6c-9377-e473bbb6d96b" /> DIY;PCB;TS-2 Preamp http://www.diy-central.com/Trackback.aspx?guid=31a35622-2104-498a-af0c-988df031a317 http://www.diy-central.com/pingback.aspx http://www.diy-central.com/PermaLink,guid,31a35622-2104-498a-af0c-988df031a317.aspx DIY-Central.com Administrator

Assembly Instructions

Disclaimer:
Working with high voltages (110V/220V) can be lethal. Work at your own risk. Soldering irons are hot. Use caution.

Tools Required:

1. Cutter Pliers
2. Long Nose Pliers
3. Soldering iron (adjustable temperature preferred), or 25-30W soldering iron. (Do not use 100W soldering iron.)
4. Solder lead (60/40 or equivalent)

Step-by-Step Assembly Instructions:

If you bought the kit, all the onboard PCB parts are already included, sorted, and labeled for your convenience. Click here to order the PSU-4448 KIT.


ORDER THE PSU-4448 KIT or PCB.

TIP:

1. Solder components from the smallest/shortest to the biggest/tallest component in that order. This makes assembly easier.

2. Do not use too much solder lead. Use just enough to make a good connection. The PCB is plated-through hole, and molten solder lead will flow into the hole to ensure a good connection. You don't need globs of solder to make a good connection.

3. Work slowly and carefully, especially if this is your first time. Double-check parts before soldering them. It's easier to solder something in, that to desolder them out (if you make a mistake).

4. If you make a mistake solder a part in the PCB (example, wrong location, or wrong orientation/placement), you will need a desoldering tool to suck the solder out from the board.  Even then, the part may not easily get out. The easiest thing to do is to "sacrifice" the part, cut the leads, use a long nose pliers to hold the lead, heat the pad while pulling the leads out. Then use a desoldering tool to open the hole. So as I said, double check parts before committing to solder them.

 

Step 1:

Solder all resistors, and diodes to the board.

(2pcs) 220 ohms - RED-RED-BROWN

(1pc) 8.2K (8K2) - GRY-RED-RED

(1pc) 7.5K (7K5) - VIOLET-GRN-RED   = this is marked on the PCB as 7.68K

Note the orientation of the (4) diodes on the board. The white band should all be on top.

Step 2:

Next, solder the 0.1uf capacitor. You may need to open up the legs of the capacitors a bit to fit in the holes.

 

They'll go into the PCB looking like this.

Step 3:

Next, solder the bridge rectifier W02G. Note the orientation of the component and where the flat side is pointing.

 

Step 4:

Next, solder the (4) electrolytic capacitors. (2pcs) of 10uf and (2pcs) of 1uf.  You will need to open up the legs of the 1uf a little bit to go into the hole.

 

This is what your PCB board should look like at this point of the assembly. Note the capacitors.

 

Step 5:

Next, solder the (2) LM317 regulators to the board. For aesthetics, make sure they're the same height when you solder them. Also, note the orientation. The flat side (heatsink mounting part) should be facing towards the outside of the PCB.

 

Step 6:

The only thing remaining to do now is solder the (2) big electrolytic capacitors.

TIP: The capacitors are snap-in type. So when you put place them on the PCB, do a twisting motion. When you solder the capacitor, the (-) leg of the capacitor is tied to the ground plane of the PCB. The PCB copper can suck the heat out of your soldering iron. So make sure to bump up the temperature of your soldering iron up.

TESTING:

Solder AC1 and AC2 terminals of the board to the SECONDARY windings of your power transformer. Apply power to your power transformer, and measure that you're getting 44V and 48V DC at the output of the PSU board.

Note: You may not measure EXACTLY get 44 and 48V due to component tolerances. But if it's of by a few millivolts, you'd be fine. If you're measuring something like 0V or 60V or higher, something is wrong and most probably you have a short somewhere.

If everything checks out, then attach a heatsink to each voltage regulator. I recommend you use TO-220 insulators/spacers so there is no electrical connection between the heatsink and the regulator. You can also use TWO SEPARATE heatsinks, one for each regulator. Just make sure the two heatsinks DO NOT touch each other.

BUY the Power Supply KIT or PCB

Order PSU-4448 PCB. Only $20.00 per PCB
Plus $3.00 for shipping to US addresses (except HI,PR)

 

KITS ARE NOW AVAILABLE!

Order PSU-4448 PCB+KIT. Only $30.00 per KIT
Plus $5.00 for shipping to US addresses (except HI,PR)


PSU-4448 Kit Assembly Instructions http://www.diy-central.com/PermaLink,guid,31a35622-2104-498a-af0c-988df031a317.aspx http://www.diy-central.com/PSU4448KitAssemblyInstructions.aspx Mon, 30 Apr 2007 23:06:31 GMT <p class="normal style1" align="center"> <strong>Assembly Instructions </strong> </p> <p class="normal"> <strong>Disclaimer:<br> </strong>Working with high voltages (110V/220V) can be lethal. Work at your own risk. Soldering irons are hot. Use caution. </p> <p class="normal"> <strong>Tools Required:</strong> </p> <p class="normal"> 1. Cutter Pliers <br> 2. Long Nose Pliers<br> 3. Soldering iron (adjustable temperature preferred), or 25-30W soldering iron. (Do not use 100W soldering iron.) <br> 4. Solder lead (60/40 or equivalent) </p> <p class="normal"> <strong>Step-by-Step Assembly Instructions:</strong> </p> <p class="normal"> If you bought the kit, all the onboard PCB parts are already included, sorted, and labeled for your convenience. Click here to <a href="http://www.fivefish.net/diy/PSU4448/default.asp">order the PSU-4448 KIT. </a> </p> <p class="normal" align="center"> <img src="http://www.fivefish.net/diy/PSU4448/images/kit1.jpg" height="521" width="638"> <br> </p> <p class="normal" align="center"> <a href="http://www.fivefish.net/diy/PSU4448/default.asp#order"><span class="style2">ORDER THE PSU-4448 KIT or PCB. </span></a> </p> <p class="normal"> <strong>TIP: </strong> </p> <p class="normal"> 1. Solder components from the smallest/shortest to the biggest/tallest component in that order. This makes assembly easier. </p> <p class="normal"> 2. Do not use too much solder lead. Use just enough to make a good connection. The PCB is plated-through hole, and molten solder lead will flow into the hole to ensure a good connection. You don't need globs of solder to make a good connection. </p> <p class="normal"> 3. Work slowly and carefully, especially if this is your first time. Double-check parts before soldering them. It's easier to solder something in, that to desolder them out (if you make a mistake). </p> <p class="normal"> 4. If you make a mistake solder a part in the PCB (example, wrong location, or wrong orientation/placement), you will need a desoldering tool to suck the solder out from the board.&nbsp; Even then, the part may not easily get out. The easiest thing to do is to "sacrifice" the part, cut the leads, use a long nose pliers to hold the lead, heat the pad while pulling the leads out. Then use a desoldering tool to open the hole. So as I said, double check parts before committing to solder them. </p> <p class="normal"> &nbsp; </p> <p class="normal"> <strong>Step 1:</strong> </p> <p class="normal"> Solder all resistors, and diodes to the board. </p> <p class="normal"> (2pcs) 220 ohms - RED-RED-BROWN </p> <p class="normal"> (1pc) 8.2K (8K2) - GRY-RED-RED </p> <p class="normal"> (1pc) 7.5K (7K5) - VIOLET-GRN-RED&nbsp;&nbsp; = this is marked on the PCB as 7.68K </p> <p class="normal"> Note the orientation of the (4) diodes on the board. The white band should all be on top. </p> <p class="normal" align="center"> <img src="http://www.fivefish.net/diy/PSU4448/images/step1.jpg" height="494" width="600"> </p> <p class="normal"> <strong>Step 2: </strong> </p> <p class="normal"> Next, solder the 0.1uf capacitor. You may need to open up the legs of the capacitors a bit to fit in the holes. </p> <p class="normal" align="center"> <img src="http://www.fivefish.net/diy/PSU4448/images/step2.jpg" height="434" width="600"> </p> <p class="normal" align="center"> &nbsp; </p> <p class="normal" align="left"> They'll go into the PCB looking like this. </p> <p class="normal" align="center"> <img src="http://www.fivefish.net/diy/PSU4448/images/step3.jpg" height="450" width="600"> </p> <p class="normal" align="left"> <strong>Step 3:</strong> </p> <p class="normal" align="left"> Next, solder the bridge rectifier W02G. Note the orientation of the component and where the flat side is pointing. </p> <p class="normal" align="center"> <img src="http://www.fivefish.net/diy/PSU4448/images/step4.jpg" height="505" width="600"> </p> <p class="normal" align="center"> &nbsp; </p> <p class="normal" align="left"> <strong>Step 4: </strong> </p> <p class="normal"> Next, solder the (4) electrolytic capacitors. (2pcs) of 10uf and (2pcs) of 1uf.&nbsp; You will need to open up the legs of the 1uf a little bit to go into the hole. </p> <p class="normal" align="center"> <img src="http://www.fivefish.net/diy/PSU4448/images/step5.jpg" height="542" width="600"> </p> <p class="normal"> &nbsp; </p> <p class="normal"> This is what your PCB board should look like at this point of the assembly. Note the capacitors. </p> <p class="normal" align="center"> <img src="http://www.fivefish.net/diy/PSU4448/images/step6.jpg" height="402" width="600"> </p> <p class="normal"> &nbsp; </p> <p class="normal"> <strong>Step 5:</strong> </p> <p class="normal"> Next, solder the (2) LM317 regulators to the board. For aesthetics, make sure they're the same height when you solder them. Also, note the orientation. The flat side (heatsink mounting part) should be facing towards the outside of the PCB. </p> <p class="normal" align="center"> <img src="http://www.fivefish.net/diy/PSU4448/images/step7.jpg" height="467" width="600"> </p> <p class="normal"> &nbsp; </p> <p class="normal"> <strong>Step 6: </strong> </p> <p class="normal"> The only thing remaining to do now is solder the (2) big electrolytic capacitors. </p> <p class="normal"> TIP: The capacitors are snap-in type. So when you put place them on the PCB, do a twisting motion. When you solder the capacitor, the (-) leg of the capacitor is tied to the ground plane of the PCB. The PCB copper can suck the heat out of your soldering iron. So make sure to bump up the temperature of your soldering iron up. </p> <p class="normal" align="center"> <img src="http://www.fivefish.net/diy/PSU4448/images/step8.jpg" height="542" width="600"> </p> <p class="normal"> <strong>TESTING:</strong> </p> <p class="normal"> Solder AC1 and AC2 terminals of the board to the SECONDARY windings of your power transformer.&nbsp;Apply power to your power transformer, and measure that you're getting 44V and 48V DC at the output of the PSU board. </p> <p class="normal"> Note: You may not measure EXACTLY get 44 and 48V due to component tolerances. But if it's of by a few millivolts, you'd be fine.&nbsp;If you're measuring something like 0V or 60V or higher, something is wrong and most probably you have a short somewhere. </p> <p class="normal"> If everything checks out, then attach a heatsink to each voltage regulator. I recommend you use TO-220 insulators/spacers so there is no electrical connection between the heatsink and the regulator.&nbsp;You can also use TWO SEPARATE heatsinks, one for each regulator. Just make sure the two heatsinks DO NOT touch each other. </p> <table border="0" cellpadding="10" cellspacing="0" width="100%"> <tbody> <tr> <td rowspan="3" align="right"> <a href="http://www.fivefish.net/diy/PSU4448/PSU4448/default.asp"><img src="http://www.fivefish.net/diy/PSU4448/images/ps4448-complete.jpg" border="0" height="334" width="329"></a></td> <td align="center" valign="middle"> <span class="style7">BUY the Power Supply KIT or PCB</span></td> </tr> <tr> <td align="center" valign="middle"> <p class="normal style2" align="center"> <a href="http://www.fivefish.net/diy/psu4448/default.asp#order"><span class="style4"><strong>Order PSU-4448 PCB. 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Only $30.00 per KIT</strong></span></a> <br> <span class="style3">Plus $5.00 for shipping to US addresses (except HI,PR)</span> </p> <p class="normal style2"> <span class="style3"></span> </p> <input name="cmd" value="_s-xclick" type="hidden"> <form action="https://www.paypal.com/cgi-bin/webscr" method="post"> <input name="encrypted" value="-----BEGIN PKCS7-----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-----END PKCS7-----" type="hidden"> </form> </td> </tr> <tr> <td colspan="2" align="center"> <a href="http://www.fivefish.net/diy/PSU4448/step1.asp"> <br> </a> </td> </tr> </tbody> </table> <p> </p> <img width="0" height="0" src="http://www.diy-central.com/aggbug.ashx?id=31a35622-2104-498a-af0c-988df031a317" /> DIY;PCB;Power Supply;Yamaha PM1000