This looks like a very interesting project. If you're into audio measurements, this project might also interest you.

From the Pmillett website...

Most of us DIY audio types have been using PC sound cards to make measurements.  There are excellent, inexpensive programs available to do test and measurement of audio equipment available.  Personally I use Audiotester.  If you've been around my web site you've seen FFT plots generated that way.

What has always been lacking is a decent interface between the sound card and the device under test (DUT for you geeks).  There has been much discussion in forums like DIYaudio about this, and many proposals and circuits shown, but so far I've not seen anything implemented.

The problem with sound cards is that they are designed for fixed line-level inputs and outputs.  Depending on the card this may be between 1V and 5V RMS maximum.  They are also not tolerant of overloads - accidentally deliver 20V into your sound card input and you will most likely be looking for a new sounds card.

http://www.pmillett.com/ATEST.htm

Mightyohm documents in his blog the making of a low cost, open source wireless streaming internet radio receiver.  All construction details, including schematics, source code, and even the design process itself will be documented on this blog. http://mightyohm.com/blog/2008/10/building-a-wifi-radio-part-1-introduction/

Doing some CNC milling work...



After a couple of hours, I have these babies...



For my TS-2 preamps


TS-2 Preamp by FiveFish Studios

Maxim offers a great explanation of DC-DC converters.

DC-DC Converter Tutorial

Abstract: Switching power supplies offer higher efficiency than traditional linear power supplies. They can step-up, step-down, and invert. Some designs can isolate output voltage from the input. This article outlines the different types of switching regulators used in DC-DC conversion. It also reviews and compares the various control techniques for these converters.

http://www.maxim-ic.com/app-notes/index.mvp/id/2031

You want things that make bleeps, noises, and other electronic noises? Then this kit is for you!

Bleep Labs Robo Audio Synths

• Enjoy making all sorts of robotic and electronic noises with this light-controlled analog synthesizer.
• Great fun for the hobbyist, musician, electronics buff, or goober who just likes making weird noises for people.
• 1/4" output jack to connect to guitar pedals, amps, etc. (no input jack)
• Thingamakit features two LEDacles and has square and triangle wave output which, coupled with the secondary photocell, means even more creative and sound control.
• Thingamagoop includes: one Thingamagoop (your choice of color) - each will have slight (very slight) sound variations as each is hand made.
• Thingamakit includes: Detailed instructions., fully labeled components, simply laid out circuit board with minimal hand wiring, two ready to blink LEDacles, "stompbox" style enclosure, and control panel and face stickers.

http://www.thinkgeek.com/electronics/musical-instruments/bf12/

This site http://scotthelmke.com/ showcases a lot of DIY microphones by the author. They look awesome. Here's a picture of a stereo microphone.



This mic is based on a pair of Transound TSB-55A cardioid electret capsules. These capsules are almost identical to the Panasonic WM-55A, but with a bit flatter low end. The two capsules are in a vertical stack, splayed out about 100 degrees. I really designed it to fit into a grand piano for live sound, but it does a nice general stereo recording as well.

I've also built stereo mics with the bigger, better Transound capsules. Those tend to be quieter, but not as flat as the TSB-55A.

Construction is a lot simpler than it looks. The body is just 1" ID copper water pipe, with the window cutouts done with a Dremel tool. The screen is brass mesh from McMaster-Carr. The capsule mount was made from various bits of brass from that little craft-metals display in the hardware store, and is mounted in a wooden plug that fits inside the mic body. Finally, the connector is a Switchcraft B4M, which fits the copper pipe almost perfectly. I used a piece rigid tubing to help the body of the connector fit nicely into mic body. This mic uses a small external power supply which is phantom-powered from a standard audio mixer. It would also be possible to build a simple power supply using a 9 volt battery and with an 1/8" stereo output, for use with a minidisc or other small recorder.

http://scotthelmke.com/stereo-mic.html

More DIY Microhones... http://scotthelmke.com/microphones.html

A DIY Tube Microphone.... and yes, it's a KIT!  What's even more awesome about this is the microphone body, grille and other stuff is included in the KIT.  Anybody that's into building DIY microphones know this is the most hardest thing to DIY... the microphone case. Not the electronics, not the power supply but the mechanical enclosure! So this kit packages everything nicely.

From the writeup:

Beautifully machined (unpainted) brass microphone body and head-grill assembly
Internal mounting cage assembly to mount circuit board, capsule, transformer and connector housings.

Components included

1 - 32mm/1in large diaphragm pressure gradient capsule (assembled)
1 - Plastic capsule mount
1 - Pre-amp circuit PCB
1 - Tube socket PCB
1 - Vacuum tube, 12AX7
1 - 9-pin tube socket
1 - 7-pin XLR male connector
2 - Ceramic insulators for both ends of C4

1 - Film Resistor,  1/2 W 10KΩ
1 - Film Resistor,  2W 100KΩ
2 - Film Resistor,  1/2 W 270KΩ
2 - Resistor, 51M
1 - Resistor, 200M
1 - Film Resistor, RJ 1/2 W 3KΩ
1 - Resistor, 1 KM
3 - Capacitor,  1μ/400V
2 - Capacitor,  .022μ/630V
1 - Capacitor,  1000 pF/630V
1 - Capacitor,  100μ/25V
3 - Capacitor,  0.1μ/63V
1 - Capacitor,  1000μ/10V
1 - Ceramic Capacitor, 2pF
1 - Transformer, turns ratio 10:1

1 - Fully assembled power supply
1 - Power cable for power supply
1 - 7-pin microphone cable

Printed documents
Schematic

I bought this kit on eBay and sure hope to find the time to build it.  I'll post pictures of my build.

Last October, I held a sale of my X-12mk500 preamps.
 http://fivefishstudios.com/index.php/X-12mk500-Mic-Preamp-Kit.html

These are some of the units that went out to customers... <drool>

Thanks to all my customers that support FiveFish Studios DIY Mic Preamp kits.
Some photos:


from another angle

Lunchbox pres racked in a 1u case

Just a test.... checking clearances, and how the whole thing will look.

The real deal will be a setup for (2) X-12 pres.

update:



Finished X-12 preamp, 2 channel in a 1u rack.




check it out... We now have audio samples of the X-12 Mic Preamp.

http://fivefishstudios.com/index.php/Audio-Samples.html

Special thanks to Farview Recording (Jay Walsh) and Jason Mallow. You guys ROCK! Also thanks to Madison Rhoades for the vocal clips.

Check out the Servant song... all tracks recorded through an X-12 Mic Preamp.

The X-12 preamp kits are now on sale.

I updated the X-12 PDF guide and explained more about the option of using PDIP8 chips and DOA chips.

The key is using MillMax socket pins on the board. This will allow you to quickly remove the PDIP8 chips, insert your DOA chips and do some listening tests. The DOA chip sits well above the IC sockets. You'd have to remove the PDIP chip though if you want to use DOAs.

Here's the latest photo of the X-12 preamp using an API 2520 clone Discrete Op Amp.

This preamp was inspired by A certain Preamp Indeed!

But no, it's not a clone. Rather, I'd like to call it my FiveFish version

It uses input transformers with high-nickel and mumetal shielding, monolithic opamps and also has the option to use 990/992/2520 discrete opamps, null offset, output transformers, on-board voltage regulators, Relay-controlled -20dB Pads and Polarity Reverse, Soft-start phantom power, LED-lighted push button swithes, Grayhill selector switch, Bourns pot.

It uses a very very low distortion opamp chip for amplification, coupled to a high current, high-slew rate (2000V/us) video buffer driver subjecting that output transformer into submission.

The sound is huge and beefy... it will fight back when pushed hard, and slap you up and down silly to let you know who's boss... kinda like a rock n roll club bouncer.

(VU meter not shown in above photo, 5-LED VU Metering included in kit.)

Finally finished one channel and did some testing.... THE MOMENT OF TRUTH is coming! Will it work or not???

Woohoooo!!!!! YES! 

At first I wasn't getting any signal and was in a bit of panic... I'm thinking "oh no... what did I do wrong?" 

Told myself I need to calm down and re-check everything step by step. Found out I have a loose connection since everything is just temporarily affixed with tape and alligator clips. Secured that connection and now we have continuity.

Device Under Test


Then I heard music... coming from my signal source... YES! It works and passes signal. Sounds good too! Pretty stoked about it.  Check the gain settings, it works... check the trim, it works.  I tested it with a line level input and an SM57 dynamic mic, and yes, sounds great.  I haven't tested it yet with condenser mics since I don't have the switchboard hooked up yet... (the switchboard has the 48V phantom power converter).

After an hour of music listening, hooked it up to my signal gen and oscilloscope to see out how things are. 

Check it out... here's the square wave response at 1Khz.  Notice how clean and sharp the square wave response is... no ringing, oscillations or instability at either the rising and falling edges!

Square Wave Response 1Khz


Did some output measurements while we're at it... how high an output can we go before clipping or instability. I'm not expecting it to be high (like +27/28dBu) since we're not using high supply voltages here, just a DC-DC converter PSU... but let's see what can we get...

Not bad.... not bad at all.  Some readings....

15Hz @ 32Vpp      = +23 dBu
20Hz @ 35.6Vpp   = +24dBu
1Khz @ 37.7Vpp    = +24.7 dBu
22Khz @ 31.1Vpp   = +23dBu
100Khz @ 24.4Vpp = +20dBu
200Khz @ 14.65Vpp = +16.5dBu

Output waveform at 100Khz.



What's the Next Step?

Build the 2nd channel on the TS-2 preamp board, then test together the Motherboard and Switchboard...
Metalwork/CNC for the case, verify measurements and hole locations
 
So far, I'm pretty pleased with how everything is working out, from concept and design on paper, to CAD, to a working prototype.

Anyways... finally got some time tonight to do some work on the motherboard.

First, populated the PSU section to see if it works... yup, A.O.K.  (had to jumper the switch temporarily since the motherboard isn't hooked to the switchboard.)

So far so good, the switchboard, 48V section, and now the DC-DC section are all working fine.

Work done so far... all resistors, zeners and diodes stuffed.


Tomorrow after church service, I'll solder the caps, IC sockets, pots and switches and XLRs, then start testing.

Built the TS-2 switchboard PCB, tested the 48V phantom power section and it works A.O.K!

LEDs will be mounted under the board.

I can already see a few minor changes to the board design... need to push the switches a bit more forward, maybe by 0.1"

The height clearance is perfect... about 1mm for the caps and about 2mm for the switches between these parts and the celing height of the case. Real tight... 

Again, here's the initial design that existed only on the computer.


And here it is, in real life   (with a few minor changes as you can see.)


Now, off to build the main motherboard. 

UPDATED:

New prototype boards came in today... wohoo!


Let's do some test fittings...

The (2) VU Meters


and oh yeah.... 2 input transformers.


This is the switchboard...


A preview of things to come...


Next step: Build a prototype using these new boards and see if it works.

It's done :)  My switching DC-to-DC PSU.

I've been working on this design on and off since October 2007. Several prototypes later, and many $$$, I'm happy with it.  All output voltages are regulated and adjustable via multiturn trimmers, +18, -18 and it's a true +48V phantom power... all derived from a single 12Volt input.  Outputs are short circuit protected. Just a big spark, but keeps on ticking. Nothing gets blown. 




Powering my preamp and my I/O module (input and output trafo, pad, polarity) with Active DI, via 12V wall wart. No hashing sound, no RF leak, no noise. (Well, okay... when you're at 66-72dB gain... but could be caused by everything not in a metal enclosure.)





Output on all 3 rails are typical like below:



Switching spikes on the DC output of about 0.06Vpeak-to-peak, and interval of 33.333Khz. I can set switching freq. to about 60Khz but the spikes get larger.

So I compromised for smaller spikes at a lower switching frequency... i.e. smaller spike/transients, less RFI energy emitted, less chance that it will interfere with sensitive mic pre circuitry.

Assembly Instructions

Disclaimer:
Working with high voltages (110V/220V) can be lethal. Work at your own risk. Soldering irons are hot. Use caution.

Tools Required:

1. Cutter Pliers
2. Long Nose Pliers
3. Soldering iron (adjustable temperature preferred), or 25-30W soldering iron. (Do not use 100W soldering iron.)
4. Solder lead (60/40 or equivalent)

Step-by-Step Assembly Instructions:

If you bought the kit, all the onboard PCB parts are already included, sorted, and labeled for your convenience. Click here to order the PSU-4448 KIT.

ORDER THE PSU-4448 KIT or PCB.

TIP:

1. Solder components from the smallest/shortest to the biggest/tallest component in that order. This makes assembly easier.

2. Do not use too much solder lead. Use just enough to make a good connection. The PCB is plated-through hole, and molten solder lead will flow into the hole to ensure a good connection. You don't need globs of solder to make a good connection.

3. Work slowly and carefully, especially if this is your first time. Double-check parts before soldering them. It's easier to solder something in, that to desolder them out (if you make a mistake).

4. If you make a mistake solder a part in the PCB (example, wrong location, or wrong orientation/placement), you will need a desoldering tool to suck the solder out from the board.  Even then, the part may not easily get out. The easiest thing to do is to "sacrifice" the part, cut the leads, use a long nose pliers to hold the lead, heat the pad while pulling the leads out. Then use a desoldering tool to open the hole. So as I said, double check parts before committing to solder them.

 

Step 1:

Solder all resistors, and diodes to the board.

(2pcs) 220 ohms - RED-RED-BROWN

(1pc) 8.2K (8K2) - GRY-RED-RED

(1pc) 7.5K (7K5) - VIOLET-GRN-RED   = this is marked on the PCB as 7.68K

Note the orientation of the (4) diodes on the board. The white band should all be on top.

Step 2:

Next, solder the 0.1uf capacitor. You may need to open up the legs of the capacitors a bit to fit in the holes.

 

They'll go into the PCB looking like this.

Step 3:

Next, solder the bridge rectifier W02G. Note the orientation of the component and where the flat side is pointing.

 

Step 4:

Next, solder the (4) electrolytic capacitors. (2pcs) of 10uf and (2pcs) of 1uf.  You will need to open up the legs of the 1uf a little bit to go into the hole.

 

This is what your PCB board should look like at this point of the assembly. Note the capacitors.

 

Step 5:

Next, solder the (2) LM317 regulators to the board. For aesthetics, make sure they're the same height when you solder them. Also, note the orientation. The flat side (heatsink mounting part) should be facing towards the outside of the PCB.

 

Step 6:

The only thing remaining to do now is solder the (2) big electrolytic capacitors.

TIP: The capacitors are snap-in type. So when you put place them on the PCB, do a twisting motion. When you solder the capacitor, the (-) leg of the capacitor is tied to the ground plane of the PCB. The PCB copper can suck the heat out of your soldering iron. So make sure to bump up the temperature of your soldering iron up.

TESTING:

Solder AC1 and AC2 terminals of the board to the SECONDARY windings of your power transformer. Apply power to your power transformer, and measure that you're getting 44V and 48V DC at the output of the PSU board.

Note: You may not measure EXACTLY get 44 and 48V due to component tolerances. But if it's of by a few millivolts, you'd be fine. If you're measuring something like 0V or 60V or higher, something is wrong and most probably you have a short somewhere.

If everything checks out, then attach a heatsink to each voltage regulator. I recommend you use TO-220 insulators/spacers so there is no electrical connection between the heatsink and the regulator. You can also use TWO SEPARATE heatsinks, one for each regulator. Just make sure the two heatsinks DO NOT touch each other.

	BUY the Power Supply KIT or PCB
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	KITS ARE NOW AVAILABLE! Order PSU-4448 PCB+KIT. Only $30.00 per KIT Plus $5.00 for shipping to US addresses (except HI,PR)

Did the noise floor at max gain drop at all?

By -1dB! But it's probably awash. It could have been better.

Using the external gain switch with about almost 6" of wires (3" going to, 3" coming back) made RF noise worse. See that clump of white wires there going to the switch?

But "grounding" the case made the unit quieter. In fact, it's a different kind of quiet hissing sound. And again, you only hear this hiss sound at max volume and at +66 and +72dB gain. Anything below that gain and it's super quiet/silent.

Maybe that's why a certain commercial preamp's max gain level setting is only 59dB! I won't mention names. :)

My recommendation: On the final kit, don't save a few bucks to buy a $6 plastic rotary switch instead of the $16 Bourns PCB-mounted, metal selector switch originally spec'd. The wiring job is tedious.

See that big clump of white wires in the photo? Touch it and you'd pick up all sorts of AM radio. (+72dB gain = 4000x amplification!)

But I do know some people are interested in using hookup wires instead of the onboard selector switch so I had to try it. It could work, it will just take more time assembling it, and there could be more potential noise/RF problems. Neat wiring and soldering job is a must if going this route.

Right now, I measured noise floor at -63dB and -64dB @ +72dB gain.
And -70 to -69dB at +66dB gain.
-76 to -75dB at +60dB gain.

photos at +72dB gain.

FINISHED!!!!!!!!!

Worked on this project this Friday, Saturday and Sunday.... whew!

Since I used an external 12-pos switch, I basically had to solder 13 wires, so that equals 26 solder points per channel, or 52 solder points for 2 channels!!! I wouldn't recommend this approach. The wires are also prone to RFI pickup. I made the wires as short as I can but still, it's prone to pickup interference.

I would recommend you guys use the onboard PCB selector switch instead.

To fix the RF problem at 66dB and 72dB Gain, I "discovered" a new (new for me at least) of fixing ground loop/rf problems.

I wired the ground of the 1st channel to the XLR output gnd of the 2nd channel and vice versa. That lowered RF problems, but there was still some slight noise but I noticed that if I parallel the 2 gnd wires and stick them flat against the case, it fixed the RF problem. So that's what I did. You can see the "black tape" holding the 2 gnd wires flat against the case.

I don't know what to call this method... It is definitely NOT a star ground. It's more like an X ground.

Now, the only thing you hear is normal "hiss/white noise" at 100% volume @ 72dB gain! There also seem to be a spike at 15.7Khz. But at normal listening volume (unity gain on mixer), the hiss/white noise is only slight even at 72dB.

Some photos!!!

From this....

To this....

Some close-up photos.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Rev3.00 PCB will be coming in middle of this week from the PCB manufacturer, and then I'll test those samples by building prototype #003 and #004.

April 20, 2007

I'm racking prototype #001 and #002. Getting ready to use it for sample recordings, so I need to be able to take it anywhere easily. I'd also like to see if racking it in a metal case will improve noise floor further... hope so!!!

Also going to test how the 7818/7918 PSU type regulators stack up vs. 317/337 type regulators. I want to see if 317/337 are really better than plain stock 7818/7918, or if it's just a myth.

This is still the PCB without the onboard pots and selectors. So I guess, we'll also see noise performance when using external pots and switches with hook-up wires.

Here are some photos.... sorry for the harsh shadows, I just used a single flash on the right side and didn't use any reflector on the left.

If you use on-board pots and switches, you can easily fit 4 preamp channels on a 1u rack... with plenty of room to spare in the back.

http://www.fivefish.net/diy/sc1/images/protocase2.jpg

The front view of the prototype rack. (On the background, you'll see my new "electronics assembly" factory. I'm getting ready to package some PSU kits to sell.)

Closeup of prototype #001.

The switch you see in the picture is just a jury-rigged DPDT switch using component leads soldered to the switch and PCB.

Closeup of prototype #002.

Knobs and switches and pots on front panel.

Back view showing IEC AC line filter connector, fuse, and Neutrik XLR male and female jacks.

Getting ready to build a PSU for this. I already have an 18-0-18 designed PSU, but I think I can still improve upon it. I'll try my Rev1 PSU design, and compare it with a 317/337 type psu. See which one is better.

The PSU kit will be sold separately from the SC-1 kit.

Current consumption for (2) channels.

+/- 26.4 mA (2 channels, with phantom power LED OFF)

If phantom power is ON, the LEDs consume a few milliamps.

if using a diffuse RED LED, it's consumption is 3.1mA x 2 = 6.2mA
total = 32.6mA

if using a clear RED LED, it's consumption is 4.9mA x 2 = 9.8mA
total = 36.2mA

Add another LED for the power on switch indicator... 4.9mA

And estimate about 10mA to 14mA for each phantom powered mic attached = 28mA

GRAND TOTAL ESTIMATE: 69.1 mAmps for 2 channels

To be on the safe side (with 100% safety factor), let's round it up to 140mA.

So the VA needed will be 18V x .140 Amp = 2.52VA

Looking at available toroidal transformers, we can buy a 3.2VA transformer (18V @ .178 Amps) - Good enough!

But if you'll be adding additional modules in the future, maybe the 7VA transformer (18V @ .388 amps) is a much better buy considering it's only $1 more expensive compared to the 3.2VA. - Recommended!

The SC-1 has one feature that I have not talked about much. It's got provisions for an INSERT.

Just like the Inserts in your mixer, the concept is I want to be able to add future signal processing to the SC-1 easily.

I envision in the future creating add-on modules to the SC-1. For example: Passive EQ, Active EQ, optical compressor, VCA compressor, etc... so all you'll need to do is solder 3 wires, remove the jumper JP2 and the add-on module is now part of the signal path.

If you're a purist, and you don't want anything else changing the sound... just don't add any modules.

If you want a preamp with an EQ, you can have it.
If you want a preamp with built-in compression, you can have it.
If you want THE WORKS, preamp with built-in compression, EQ, etc...

Just add the modules you want. You can see the 3 solder pads in the PCB in the photo below, near the lower left corner.

As far as the insert modules go, would it be possible to wire this as a 1/4" insert jack?

I looked into the datasheets, and it could work.

The SC-1 will have a 5K input impedance for the insert return. And the send can have a max +/- 13V swing (on a 15-0-15 supply) output voltageon a 2K load.

Note: the SC-1 will be powered by 18-0-18 so the output voltage swing could be higher.

(The Mackie 1402VLZ has 2.5k input impedance for the insert return. )

I'll try it out one of these days.

The saga continues... Time to get picky! I want to stamp out every possible problem that could happen.

Hooked up the preamp via 20ft xlr to trs cable. From the test preamp it went into a patch bay, then a 3ft cord, then to MOTU inputs.

Used Digital Performer to record the tracks and measure the "noise" DP registered in it's VU meters.

Gain position - Gain dB - VU meter reading
============================
1 - 0dB -90dB
2 - 6dB -90dB
3 - 12dB -90dB
4 - 18dB -90dB
5 - 24dB -90dB
6 - 30dB -90dB
7 - 36dB -84dB
8 - 42dB -74dB
9 - 48dB -66dB
10- 54dB -59dB
11- 60dB -52dB
12- 66dB -44dB

As you can see, noise started to increase at the 8th gain position -74dB reading for a 42dB of gain.

During my testing the other day, I did notice the oscillation on the 5th, 6th and 7th position which was reduced/eliminated by the bypass capacitors.

But the 0.1uf bypass caps were ineffective for gain position 8th and higher. ... and it shows in the readings above.

-74dB is still not too noticeable, but -59, -52 and -44dB are very high.

So I need to find a solution for this and get rid of this problem. I'm thinking a different value of bypass cap in parallel with the 0.1uf may work.

So for now, Rev3.00 PCB is on hold for manufacturing.

UPDATE
Incorporated some fixes. Added more bypass capacitors to the volume potentiometer. I think considering the volume pot is connected up via hookup wires instead of onboard the PCB is a contributing factor to the noise problem.

Picked an AM station when the preamp is hooked up directly to the RP8 monitor. Didn't happen when the pre was hooked up to the MOTU. Added another bypass cap to the volume knob and that solved the problem. Bye bye country radio!

Gain position - Gain dB - VU meter reading - New reading
============================
1 - 0dB -90dB -90dB
2 - 6dB -90dB -90dB
3 - 12dB -90dB -90dB
4 - 18dB -90dB -90dB
5 - 24dB -90dB -90dB
6 - 30dB -90dB -86dB
7 - 36dB -84dB -84dB
8 - 42dB -74dB -78dB
9 - 48dB -66dB -78dB
10- 54dB -59dB -65dB
11- 60dB -52dB -60dB
12- 66dB -44dB -55dB

DP's VU meter readings are better... especially at the 11th and 12th position. Oscillation at the higher gain settings fixed too.

Just for some layman terms...

60dB is 1000x amplification of the original signal.
66dB is 2000x amplification of the original signal.

BTW, without the preamp connected the best my system can do is -90dB. So the above -90dB readings probably should be lower.

I still want to be able to push noise lower for gain settings 54, 60 and 66dB maybe down to the -78dB mark.

The thing is since I'm using about 2" jumper to simulate my selector switch, most of the noise is coming in via this jumper. I can tell because depending on how the jumper wire is positioned, or if I'm touching it, the amount of noise varies. If I had a real selector switch soldered in, I know the readings will be even lower than above.

Another possible area where noise is coming in is via the hookup wires that connects to the external potentiometer. This piece of wire then goes directly to the balanced driver stage.

On Rev3.00 PCB, the gain selector switch and volume potentiometer will be onboard the PCB so we're talking about very minimum distances, no hookup wires and very close to the ground plane of the PCB. I don't think we'll have this problem on the Rev3 design.

So maybe I might go ahead and push to manufacturing...

more update
I decided to plugin again the SM57, crank the gain selector all the way to 66dB, and lowered the volume knob since the SM57 doesn't really need that much of a gain... hooked the preamp directly to the RP8 monitor and fired it up.

Better than yesterday and earlier today! It is quiet. The volume knob pot is like 1/5th up and it is already loud, of course considering it's at 66dB gain (amplifying 2000x) and no RF noise, no hum noise... YES, at 66dB setting!

Noise measurements:

I'm a little bummed that at the 60dB and 66dB gain settings, the SC-1 noise floor isn't lower than I expected. (@60dB, -52dB improved to -60dB; @66dB, -44dB improved to -55dB)

So I looked around the net at other equipment specs...

There's a lot of mumbo jumbo out there... Some measuring their noise with the inputs shorted to ground (which personally I don't agree) and some not specifying what's the volume level at (i.e. you can set gain to 66dB, but if you leave the volume only at 50% can get a low noise floor reading... deceiving don't you think?)

I found a Rane note (http://www.rane.com/note145.html) that says GAIN should be set to maximum (I did that) and the input TERMINATED with the expected source impedance. (Oh oh.... I did NOT do that.)

So, I goofed up. When I did the earlier noise measurements, I left the inputs hanging.

It should have been terminated with a 150-ohm resistor to simulate a mic connected to it. So I got a spare XLR jack, soldered a 150ohm resistor on pins 2 and 3, plugged it into the mic preamp and measured performance again.

WOW! Big difference! Much better.

(This also explains why the other day when I hooked up an SM57, it seems quiet and great, but when I checked the noise floor in DP (with inputs hanging), the readings were high.)

So here are the NEW and improved numbers!

Gain dB = Noise floor (Rs=150 ohms, Max Gain settings, volume at max)
================================
0dB = -90dB*
6 dB = -90dB*
12 dB = -90dB*
18 dB = -90dB*
24 dB = -90dB*
30 dB = -90dB*
36 dB = -88dB
42 dB = -85dB
48 dB = -80dB
54 dB = -74dB
60 dB = -69dB
66 dB = -64dB

* Note: The best my setup can do is -90dB, so I cannot measure anything below this.

** These are not EIN numbers.

And yes, the above values are at Max Gain, Volume knob all the way to the right - settings. This is real-world results, not theoretical calculated noise figure. This is what you'll see on your VU meters in your DAW software.

So this is the current score... we're at -64dB noise floor at 66dB gain.... much better! Now, the challenge is to reduce this further. But I'm just nit-picking here.

Noise Obsession

I've been pondering this noise issue for a couple of days now.

...... so last night, I'm trying to review my design and reviewing the data sheets....

I *KNOW* I have the resistor values for the mic pre stage I have were computed for 0 to 66dB gain. Then it goes to a servo, then to an unbalanced to balanced line driver.... which then goes to the MOTU inputs.

So I'm thinking... maybe it's the line driver stage giving me the noise problem??? The 1510 chip.

So I looked at the datasheet and something caught my eye.... the line driver stage ADDS ANOTHER 6dB GAIN!!!! DUHHHHH!!!! Of course! Going from unbalanced to balanced, gives you an additional +6dB gain!

So really, my preamp does not go from 0-66dB in 12 steps, BUT RATHER it goes from +6 to +72dB gain!!!! (i.e. 66dB mic pre gain + 6dB gain of balanced driver = 72dB total gain!)

So the correct noise figures compared to dB gain are:

Noise Floor at max gain settings, max volume, 150 ohm terminated inputs

6dB = -90dB* 12 dB = -90dB* 18 dB = -90dB* 24 dB = -90dB* 30 dB = -90dB* 36 dB = -90dB* 42 dB = -88dB 48 dB = -85dB 54 dB = -80dB 60 dB = -74dB 66 dB = -69dB 72 dB = -64dB

So there you go!

The FINAL SCORE!!!....

-69dB @ 66dB Gain with Rs=150 ohm terminated inputs, volume at max 100%. Which is about comparable to the RNP's noise floor and other non-transformer based IC mic pre design.

And for the icing on the cake, mine can go up to 72dB of gain, not just 66dB!!! -64dB @ +72dB gain (which is 4000x amplification!)

Not bad!

Found an oscilloscope plugin...
http://mdsp.smartelectronix.com/ffttools/2005/03/freakoscope-08-public-beta.php

continuing with this noise obsession... using the above plugin.

Since a picture is worth a thousand words.

Update:

Well, I spent some time working with the prototype.

Noticed some slight oscillation at the 5th, 6th, and 7th gain settings of the selector switch. So finally fixed that with additional bypass capacitors on the supply rails. We're talking about less than 0.2Volts oscillation on top of a 30Vpp output. So it's insignificant. But still, it's gone now. :)

As I said, this is Rev1.00 PCB I'm working on and it looks like on my Rev3.00 PCB, I've already incorporated those caps in the design.

Then connected the mic pre circuit output to the balanced line driver. And what do you know... the less than 0.2Volt oscillation fixed itself. The addtl caps weren't needed.

I can't wait any longer, and it's time to hear this with my own ears. So I connected my RP8 monitor to the preamp output jacks. And run the signal gen from 20Hz to 20Khz. (I didn't run it higher than that since I might burn out my tweeter!) The RP8 cannot reproduce 20Hz, and I only start to hear sound around 30+Hz... makes sense since the RP8 freq response is stated at 45Hz to 20Khz.

It passes audio, sounds great! Gain selector switch working. Even at max setting of 66dB!!!

Connected a dynamic mic. Very clean even at high gain settings. I sometimes thought the unit was off because I can't hear any residual noise when I have my ears near the RP8. Then I tap the mic and yup... it's on and working.

Next, passed some music material. Very clean, no hum, no noise .

Played "Misssing (Remix version)" by EBTG. Woohoo... the bass is so deep and clean and distinct. Not muddy. Played some synth heavy music. The highs and mids are very clear too. And quiet! No hum or noise.

I think I'll probably build a 2nd prototype of the Rev1. PCB so I can listen to it on stereo! :)

I still need to test this using a condenser mic. But from all signs, I think it will work just fine and just be as good.

More update: Condenser Mic Testing/SM57 Mic Testing:

Tried testing with some condenser mics today. Niiice! I just used +18V for the 48V phantom power since my bench psu doesn't have 48V. You don't necessarily need to have +48V for your condenser mics to work. The mics all worked just fine even at +18V, no problem!

As for the sound... it really sounds very full and very nice.

And I was blown away when I plugged in an SM57 dynamic. It *really* sounds great. Not boomy or thin, not harsh, but you can hear everything clearly.

I don't have any high-end condenser mics, but I can tell you... even a cheap MXL 990 shines on this thing. Very clear. Lots of response.

And yes, also tried a $20 Nady dynamic mic. It's not as great as the SM57, but it's still clean and quiet. A little lacking on the high end compared to the SM57.

Rev3.00 PCB Prototype

So what's next?

Rev3.00 PCB Design

I'm going to send PCB Rev3.00 (shown above) for a prototype run, build a couple of units using the Rev3.00 PCB, check the final parts list and bill of materials... and if those units work great (which I'm sure), I'm going to send the PCB out for mass manufacturing... mass as in maybe 100-250 PCB units. I'm just a small-time potato running this operation in the garage.

What's new in Rev3.00?

1. Added J.W Miller inductors at the output for RFI protection
2. Added coupling caps for balanced line driver in the output stage
3. Added jumpers for easy setup
4. Added coupling capacitor in case you don't want a Servo design... or you want a Servo + AC coupling setup. Added jumper for those who don't want AC coupling.
5. Change value or Resistor for LED phantom power indicator. Made the LED brighter. (it was a bit dim on Rev1.00)

Ordering Info

I'm shooting for mid May to end of May when you can start ordering them.

So start saving!!!! For sure, it will be less than $100 per channel (for the kit version, with all the PCB and parts included. Just supply your own soldering iron.)

Discounts will be given for those purchasing 2 channels, or preamp and psu combo. Bigger discounts for those wanting to purchase 8 channels.

The SC-1 preamp worked and it sounds great, very quiet, very clear, with a great freq response.

A lot has happened to the SC-1 mic preamp that I'm developing... that I didn't have time to update this site. Sorry about that.

Here's some new materials/information regarding the SC-1 mic preamp kit.

Basically, I'm getting close to when I can start selling the kits. I made 2 channels of prototype using the Revision 1 PCB design and I can tell you, I'm more than pleased with how it turned out. 

I also updated the design, added more enhancements and some small fixes (mainly, additional bypass capacitors, RF protection) and came up with a Revision 3 PCB. This Revision 3 design was sent out for another batch of prototype manufacturing, and I'll start building prototype #003 and #004 next week.

However!...  I made the decision to make a Revision 4 PCB design with some more enhancements. I think this is the last PCB revision before I start mass producing the PCB and then sell the kits to you guys.

Revision 4 PCB adds the following features:

1. Slow-start phantom power - ramp up the 48V phantom power slowly so mics will be happier, instead of subjecting them from 0Volts to 48Volts in an instant.

2. Added protection for INSERT out in case the output is short-circuited. The preamp will have INSERTs or has the capability for INSERT jacks and interfacing with the outside world. So you can use your compressor, or limiter using standard INSERT cables with the SC-1 preamp.

3. Added some changes to the gain selector stage to prevent popping at the higher gain level settings when switching gain. Again, this is not a *must have* fix, but it makes for a better and refined user experience.

So that's the latest on the SC-1 preamp.

Some photos of my SC-1 prototype #001 and #002.

Insert jacks not shown on this photo. This was taken before I added the INSERT jacks.

Rev1.00 PCB Prototype #001 Testing

Stuffing parts on the prototype #1 PCB, i.e. the PCB with the backwards selector switch. I want to get this working first, before I order another prototype for the REV 3.00 design.

Here's a photo I took of a partially stuffed PCB. I'm waiting for my 8-pin IC sockets to come in on Monday, then I'll be able to stuff the IC chips and get it working!

The switch shown on the photo is not the actual switch I spec'd in the parts list. But I don't want to use a $6-$8 switch for testing, so I jury rigged a $1 switch. It's not bad... and very stable and secure.

Did some changes on the Rev3.00 board... fixed the width of capacitors, aligned some components and some routing changes.

Signal Gen/Oscilloscope Testing

Soldered the IC sockets, applied 18-0-18 voltages, measure if the correct voltages are present in the correct pins... so far so good....

Insert all 3 IC chips....

Turn on power.... wait for any popping sound... None... Sniff for burnt smell.... None.... touch IC parts for hotness.... None. Everything is cool!

Proceeded to adjust knobs on my oscilloscope for a steady waveform, set my signal generator, and first I test the balanced driver circuit.

Here's a photo of my test rig/prototype.

I soldered some XLR jacks to make testing easier.

Checked the balanced driver stage....

Looks good!!!! I set the signal generator to sweep to a higher frequency... higher... higher... higher.... IN CASE YOU DIDNT NOTICE... That's 60Khz coming in and out of the balanced driver stage!!!! I'm pretty pleased.

Waveform looks pretty clean even at 60khz! WOW!

Since I don't have a selector switch, I just used a jumper to simulate a selector switch adjusting the dB gain selector. I then tapped from the output of the servo... which is after the mic pre. So in this waveform, the balanced driver isn't connected. I want to test each section of the preamp individually first.

So it works... I'm very pleased.

And of course, I know you'll want pictures so here it is.

I want you to take note of the waveform on the oscilloscope you see on the photo above, okay?

A separate photo of that same waveform is posted below... enlarged, with the camera about 5 inches away from the scope.

The top waveform is the input, and the bottom waveform is the output... just before clippinng. The oscilloscope was set to 5Volts per division. So it's roughly 30Volts peak to peak on +18/-18 power. The input is set to 2V per division.

Like it?

Well, you should. Because that waveform shot is at the max gain before clipping which is already an impressive 30Vp-p !!!!

And what's really impressive is it's doing this amplification to 30Vp-p of a 100Khz waveform AND the waveform still looks clean!!!! YES! 100 KILOHERTZ!!!! Yeay!

Here's the signal generator showing the 100 set on the dial, and the 1Khz multiplier.... as proof :)

This is going to be good!!!!!

It's getting late, so tomorrow, I'll connect the output of the pre to a potentiometer, then to the balanced driver stage.

And No... I haven't heard the preamp yet. I'm just doing signal gen testing, looking at the waveforms and looking for signs of trouble like oscillation and things like that.

But so far, so good. I'm liking what I'm seeing.

To do:
1. Add volume knob (because this prototype pcb didn't have the volume knob)
2. connect output of mic pre to balanced driver stage.
3. Test using a square wave
4. Connect RP8 monitor and do some listening tests using signal gen.
5. Play some music through it, via line level signals.
6. Test 48V phantom power.
7. Testing using condenser microphone
8. Optimize gain staging and dB steps of the preamp.
9. Test using long cables the mic pre output.
10. Test using long cables for the microphone input.
11. Really, really look for any oscillation.
12. Test at 15Hz or lower frequencies.
13. Find out highest possible frequency it can reproduce without distorting.

It's been a long wait, but I think it's going to be worth it. I am extremely pleased with the results I'm getting. And PCB rev3.00 will be even better.

I just gutted the guts of a Yamaha PM1000 channel strip. I will try to rack them in a standard 19" rack case. I'll be adding a custom power supply, and the usual XLR/TRS input and output jacks, phase, phantom switch, filter cutoff low-pass, hi-pass, etc...

So far, I'm successful in my testing after ripping and soldering everything together and adding a few modifications (i.e. using simple DPDT switches instead of 3Pole selector switches).

The Yamaha PM1000 are usually called Japanese "Neves" because of a similar approach in design. Just like the Neves, this is all discrete transistor and uses an input transformer and output transformer.

The EQ section is especially sweet because there is not a single IC on this preamp. The EQ section uses inductors and capacitors... totally analog manipulation and shaping of your frequency. (circa 1974)

I've tested them on drums and vocals and they really make the sound FAT. The EQ section shapes your sound anywhere from slight barely noticeable to extreme gain/reduction. Bass frequencies are solid. Of course, being an analog EQ, it is not as precise in shaping the sound as IC chip Equalizers. But the curve is smoother I would think.

This is what a PM1000 mixer looks like (circa 1975). Note, I did not use my fully operational 16 channel vintage mixer for this project. I have a few (8) spare PM1000 modules I got from eBay. I also have 2 master strips.

The SC-1 Mic Preamp is a THAT 1510/1512/SSM2017/SSM2019/INA217 based Mic preamp with phantom power, DC servo and Balanced line output driver.

Rev.1.00 PCB Design for the SC-1 Preamp

Introduction

The THAT 1510 is a high performance audio preamplifier suitable for use in microphone preamp application. It is pin compatible with the now discontinued, Analog Devices SSM2019 and SSM2017 IC chips, and the Texas Instruments INA217 and INA163 mic preamp chips.

Designed from the ground up in THAT’s complementary dielectric isolation process and including laser-trimmed Si-Chrome thin film resistors, the THAT 1510 improve on existing integrated microphone preamps by offering lower noise at low gains, wider bandwidth, higher slew rate, lower distortion, and lower supply current. The parts feature internal ESD overload protection on all critical pins.

In short, the THAT 1510 provide superior performance in a popular format at an affordable price.

Features

* Low Noise:
1 nV/ ÖHz input noise (60dB gain)
34 nV/ ÖHz input noise (0dB gain) (1512)
* Low THD+N (full audio bandwidth):
0.0005% < 40dB gain
0.005% @ 60dB gain
* Low Current: 6 mA
* Wide Bandwidth: 7MHz @ G=100
* High Slew Rate: 19 V/µs
* Wide Output Swing: ±13.3V on ±15V supplies
* Gain adjustable from 0 to >60dB with
one external resistor
* Industry-standard pinouts

This is a DIY Signal Isolation/Unbalanced to Balanced Converter Box. I'm using high-quality MADE IN USA Audio Output transformers to create this SI/UnBalanced-to-Balanced (or Balanced-to-Unbalanced) Converter Box. In addition, a Ground Lift switch is provided.

On this picture, you can see the 4 TRS jacks (2 per channel x 2 = 4), the 2 large audio output transformers, and the ground lift switch in the middle.

And this is the picture of the finished project. The switch on top is the GND LIFT switch.

The jacks from left to right, are Unbalanced in/out, Balanced in/out (for Channel 1), Unbalanced in/out, Balanced in/out (for Channel 2).

The unit can perform as a Unbalanced to Balanced converter, or as a Balanced to Unbalanced converter.

I designed a new PSU for people who'd like to rack those Yamaha PM1000 channel strips.

The Yamaha PM1000 are usually called Japanese "Neves" because of a similar approach in design. Just like the Neves, this is all discrete transistor and uses an input transformer and output transformer.

The EQ section is especially sweet because there is not a single IC on this preamp. The EQ section uses inductors and capacitors... totally analog manipulation and shaping of your frequency. (circa 1974)

I've tested them on drums and vocals and they really make the sound FAT. The EQ section shapes your sound anywhere from slight barely noticeable to extreme gain/reduction. Bass frequencies are solid. Of course, being an analog EQ, it is not as precise in shaping the sound as IC chip Equalizers. But the curve is smoother I would think.

So if you're racking a PM1000 strip you bought from eBay, this PSU will be perfect for you. Output is +44VDC and +48VDC for the Phantom Power.

I'm having prototypes built. If you're interested, email me.

Screenshot:

PCB Rev.2.00



The new PCB designs will be smaller and double-sided measuring 2.25" x 2.25" 

I don't have this mass-manufactured, so I'm selling it at a low price just to recover some of my costs.  $20 each.  Email me first  before ordering. Thanks.

This is a continuation of my Sony Racking Job. Click here for previous article.
http://diy-central.com/DIYRackingSonyMXPPreampsAndEQModules.aspx

Things are progressing nicely. Some photos.

Finally cut the hole for the EQ section... took about 2+ hours... it's a pain doing this. And I have to be careful not to make the square holes too big because the tolerances are very tight.

Some closeup photos of the Preamp and EQ module.

Just some preliminary pictures... I'll post the writeup later.

This is a Valley People Trans-Amp Mic Pre. No, this is not a discrete opamp like the 990 or API2520. This is a complete mic preamp in a "box."

The Trans-Samp have 9 pins at the bottom. I used some Mill-Max pins to socket them to the breadboard.

I decided to rack the few remaining Sony MXP preamp and EQ modules I have. This particular mic pre module is using a discrete opamp enclosed in some green colored epoxy or something.

I've already racked a previous Sony mic pre and EQ, so I want this 2nd unit to match the layout of the first one I did. The only difference is this particular project, the mic pre does not have the Jensen transformers, and instead is using some discrete opamp, and will be in a black 1u case.

Here are some preliminary pictures.



The Mic Pre and EQ module I'll be racking.



Preparing the 1u front panel for drilling holes.

Having a drill press makes the job so much easier than using a hand drill. Safety first... don't forget to use goggles. Freak accidents happen, like a drill bit breaking and flying into your eye! (good thing I had the goggles!) So no matter show "quick" a job it is, don't forget your safety glasses or goggles.

I decided to design my own PCB for a general split power supply with +48VDC phantom power. The one I'm currently using while compact in size doesn't leave any room for a heatsink. So I moved all TO-220 voltage regulators to the side so I'll be able to attach a big heatsink and keep those VR cool to the touch.

Here's the schematic and prototype PCB design. I'm having these PCBs fabricated, as a test prototype.

Schematic diagram. From this schematic, I created the PCB design and exported Gerber files.

Then using a third-party Gerber Viewer, I opened up the created Gerber files to double check my layout. So far, everything looks good.

You can buy this kit from PAIA, including the cool-retro case, complete with electronic parts, power supply, knobs, manuals. They even throw in the wires.  You have the option of using a desktop case with wooden sides, or mount it on a 2u rack panel.

The price I think is also pretty reasonable considering that some of these things sell in the several hundreds.

The kit includes a burned EPROM (containing the programming). The code is also available on their website.  And note, this is not just some analog synth that doesn't play with others... it has MIDI. It responds to note-on/off data, including pitch, velocy and gate. So you can hook it up and make it part of your MIDI studio.

Writeup from their website.

The FatMan has all of the features that give analog it's big bottom
and punch in a MIDI controlled package. The classic Voltage Controlled
normalization is brought up to date with a Velocity CV not available on
pre-MIDI synths. Pitch wheel modulation is supported and Pitch and
Velocity CVs and gate signal are provided on the front panel for
driving PAiA or other linear response synthesizer modules.

And all those knobs. They invite experimentation and invention in
ways that a single control with functions buried under layers of
obscure menus never can. Just a few hours with the FatMan will teach
you more about the nature of sound than you might ever learn otherwise.
It's as at home in the physics lab as on-stage.

 

Isn't this a thing of beauty? And for a few dollars, you can build your own analog synth, a'la Bob Moog! Link to Project

Write up from the website:

This is a repost of my SSL Build Thread. Thanks to Gyraf.dk for the schematic plans.

The compressor is a clone based from the SSL4044E desk (1985 era). The SSL mixbus is actually an integrated part of the desk's main quad fader and autofade system. Click here for schematics.

There's been some mods to the original schematics for use with THAT VCAs. This page contains adjustments to the resistor values.

I also did some mods on my unit. Mainly, adding transformers at the output. Originally, the unit uses opamps for balanced outs. I have some MCI 416 output trafos that I used for my SSL unit.

The PCB...

On a previous post, I posted a schematic of a passive direct box using Jensen Transformers.

I have a ROLLS DB25 passive direct box in my studio so I decided to open it up to see it's "guts".

The ROLLS DB25 is an inexpensive direct box using all passive components. That's right, no need for a 9V battery or wall wart to use this thing. Plus, it's got a transformer inside that takes care of converting from an unbalanced Hi-Z connection (from a guitar) to a balanced Lo-Z connection for connection to your mixer or preamp via XLR jacks.

In addition, it has a -20dB and -40dB pad, and a ground lift switch for "stubborn hum" reduction.

We did an unbalanced to balanced converter using dual opamp chips, the NE5532 opamp previously. While the previous circuit works, it uses a lot of components.... which means, more chances that something could go wrong.

Picture of old unbalanced to balanced converter

New Design

This new unbalanced to balanced converter uses a single chip and only 2 capacitors. We're using the Burr-Brown DRV134/135 chip. I got some DRV135 which comes in an SOIC package. There is a DRV134 which comes in an 8-pin DIP package.

This is a schematic plan for building a passive, transformer-based DI Box (Direct Box) from Jensen-Transformers.com. View the original PDF here.

You plug your hi-Z (or high impedance) guitar to jack J1. From here, it goes to a pad on/off switch. You also have 2 pad choices... -10dB and -20dB depending on the position of switch S2.

S3 is a hi-cut filter switch. If S1a (i.e. the pad switch) is switched ON, and the hi-cut filter is ON, the high frequencies are shunted to ground via C3.

The signal going back to your guitar amp via jack J2 is unaffected by the pad and hi-cut switches.

Transformer T1 is a JT-DB-E transformer. This takes care of matching impedance between your guitar and the mic preamp of your mixer. It also converts the guitar signal from unbalanced to balanced connection.  The red-brwn wires of the transformer goes to pin 2 and 3 of the XLR which forms the HOT (+) and COLD (-) connections.

Ground is connected to Pin 1 of the XLR. A ground lift switch is provided, S5, which isolates the pin 1 ground of the mixer from the rest of the circuit.



If you don't want to build one, here are some passive DI boxes.

ART ZDirect Passive DI View more products from ART The Zdirect is a high-quality, totally passive interface that lets you connect instrument-, line-, or speaker-level signals to a mixer or other balanced input through a high-performance audio isolation transformer. The high impedance single-ended 1/4 in. input is converted by the transformer into an isolated balanced low impedance signal source. Read Reviews... List Price: $30 Click for Sale price   Shipping cost: $4.99

Radial JDI Duplex Stereo Passive DI Box View more products from Radial A stereo version of the Radial JDI. Ideal for recording, broadcast, and live sound where extreme dynamics such as those produced by digital sampling devices and keyboards are encountered. Completely passive, the JD4 employs two Jensen JT-DBE transformers for 100% isolation and low phase distortion. Read Reviews... List Price: $350 Click for Sale price   FREE SHIPPING!

Radial JDI MK3 Passive Direct Box View more products from Radial The Radial JDI is considered by many to be the world’s finest direct box. It is a passive DI that employs a Jensen isolation transformer for optimum audio performance offering outstanding linearity at all frequencies, combined with extraordinary level handling without introducing distortion. Read Reviews... List Price: $200 Click for Sale price   FREE SHIPPING!

Radial Pro DI Passive Direct Box View more products from Radial The Radial ProDIs are high-quality, full-range passive direct boxes equipped with custom-made audio transformers for exceptional signal handling without saturation and with extremely low phase distortion in the critical bass and mid regions. The result is exceptional clarity and definition at an attractive price point. Read Reviews... List Price: $100 Click for Sale price   Shipping cost: $4.99

Just an update of my build: Click here to read Part 2.

Soldered 90% of the parts, including the Lundahl transformers, JFETS and transistors. I'm awaiting some parts that were "out of stock" from my first order.

Also, I ordered some wire assemblies with male/female jacks. I'll use them for connections between the main board and xlr jacks, pots, switches, etc... that way, if I need to troubleshoot the board, I can just unhook them instead of desoldering the wire from the board.

TIP: Before you complete assembly of your project, have a suitable chassis ready for it. From my experience, if I built a project without finishing the chassis first, that project becomes half-finished, working but not in a case. Laziness I know...

Also, if everything is in a chassis, you can wire everything and not have to worry about your solder connections or wires becoming loose. Everything is already in place, plus it makes it easier to work on it.

You can get your rack chassis, from 1u, 2u, all the way to 4u and 8u at par-metal.com.  They've got good prices and have nice quality racks.

Oscilloscopes are indispensable tools for anyone designing, manufacturing or repairing electronic equipment. In today’s fast-paced world, engineers need the best tools available to solve their measurement challenges quickly and accurately. As the eyes of the engineer, oscilloscopes are the key to meeting today’s demanding measurement challenges.

Tektronix presents the XYZs of Oscilloscopes. Learn about the different types of oscilloscopes, systems and controls, measurement, and how to operate an oscilloscope including measurement techniques.

Looking to save some money? Create your own cables! By spending a few dollars on jacks, shielded cables, solder and soldering iron, you can save a ton of money in cables.

For more money saving tips for your home studio, like building your own Neve preamps, SSL compressors, Yamaha "old-school" type preamps, MIDI controllers, check out my other projects.

Back to building your own cable...It's easy. Here are some step by step photos. 

At the bottom of this article, is a wiring guide for XLR to XLR, XLR to TRS, XLR to TS, and whatever combination you can think of.

On this guide, I'm wiring up an XLR cable.  First, we disassemble the cable by unscrewing the lock screw. Pull out the rubber plug (black thingy) and then you'll be able to push out the 3-pin connection assembly.




Since an XLR cable is a balanced cabel, we need a 3-wire cable. Also, make sure it is shielded to provide RF interference protection. 




Now, let's take a look at the XLR jack itself.  It's got 3 pins. Pin 1, 3 and 3. 

The convention is Pin 1 is the GROUND.
Pin 2 is the HOT (+) wire.
and Pin 3 is the COLD (-) wire.

Note: The COLD wire (-) is not the same as the GROUND wire. Don't short these two wires together!

Here's a closeup of the 3-pin assembly and you can see it's labeled for us. Great!  For this, I'm going to make my RED wire my HOT (+) wire and the WHITE wire as my COLD (-) wire.  (If you're wiring a headphone, the RED wire is usually designed for the RIGHT channel, and the WHITE wire for the LEFT channel)



Strip off a few millimeters of insulator, coat it with solder and solder it to the XLR jack terminals.



When you're done soldering the 3 wires, crimp the jack around the cable. This will provide support to the cable... i.e. when you yank off the jack, your wires wouldn't disconnect from your solder points.



Here, you can see the metal teeth crimped around the cable's jacket. Use a long-nose pliers to crimp it close. But don't crimp it too much that you mess up the cable.

Do the same procedure for the other end of the cable. This time using a Female XLR jack.  And here's our finished XLR cable.



If you need to DIY a different kind of cable, say a TRS jack or RCA, use the table below as a guide. This guide has been provided by Rane in their Technical Library section. Visit Rane website.

Credits: Rane

Visi the RANE website for more information about grounding, shielding, ground loops, etc.

Just a continuation of the saga of building my 1176 clone compressor/limiter. Click here for Part 1

Parts arrived a few days ago, and other than the audio input and output transformers and chassis, I think I have enough parts to build (2) units. Here are some pics...

First, we have the output LL5402 Lundahl transformer and the LL1540 input transformer. Made in Sweden.  These things are small.

I got most of the capacitors and the power transformer at digikey.com. They have good prices for these components.




The rest of the parts like the pots, resistors, and ceramic/mylar parts came from Mouser.com. It's a big pile!







I'll clear up my work area and maybe this Christmas break, I'll be able to start construction.  Oh yeah, need to order some 2u case from Par-Metal.com.  I only have spare 1u cases in my workshop at the moment.

We're ready to build the 1176!

I've seen the new Zoom H4 Handy Recorder. I think it's a neat little thing! And best of all, it's "cheap" at $299. Of course, "cheap" is a relative word, but compared to other gear out there, this seems to be one of the low priced new entry. It looks good too!

While reading the H4 specs, this caught my eye... "The H4 features 2 studio-quality electret condenser microphones configured in an X/Y pattern for true stereo recording."  The keyword here is "electret microphone." And the picture seems to confirm that it's really just an electret mic.

So I'm thinking, maybe I can DIY my own stereo mic.

I've used an electret microphone on a non-audio project. I made a sound-triggered flash sync for my Canon EOS30D camera. In this case, I just used the audio output from the mic to trigger an SCR, which then triggered the camera flash.

Can we used the same electret mic to create a good enough sounding stereo mic? I think we can.

So I begin adapting my sound-triggered flash sync and while doing some Googling around, I came across this product.
Stereo Super Ear Amplifier Kit

It's a kit made by Velleman and it uses 2 electret mics, and a headphone output jack. Hmmmm.... interesting. So I ordered a kit (hey, it's less than $10 so if it didn't work, it's not too much of a loss). You can use the link above to order your own kit.

The circuit is simple... the Left and Right channel is the same, so the operation of the circuit is identical. Basically, an electret condenser microphone is biased for operation using a single resistor and capacitor. The output of the microphone goes to a potentiometer which acts as the volume control. This is then amplified by the NE5532 opamp, which is then routed to a headphone jack. Since the whole circuit operates from a single supply voltage (4.5Volts), the opamp uses a virtual ground by the use of 2 resistors in it's input pin. This of course, means that each leg of the split power supply will be only Vcc/2, where Vcc=4.5Volts.

I built this kit in less than an hour... while watching TV. And construction isn't hard and it's very simple. So if you're ready to jump into this Electronics hobby and looking for your first audio project, why not try this stereo mic kit? It's only less than $10.

Here are some pics during construction... enjoy.



There are assembly instructions and schematics on the box. Very easy to follow.

This is probably one of the best site on the internet for building guitar stompboxes and effects. Kits are available, along with ready-made PCBs. 

You can build Amps, Bass Effects, Boosters, Routers, Compressors, Distortion boxes, EQ Tone Control, Filters, Modulators and Echo, Noise Generators, Octave, Phase Shifters, Power Supplies, Reverbs, Tremolo Circuits, Wah Wah, and others.

Projects have cool names like Little Gem, Ruby Amp, Rangemaster, May Queen Booster, etc...

Schematics are available, along with soundclips, and photos of the finished project. I think everyone, even those with little or no electronics experience can build these projects because they are simple, safe (low voltage, 9V usually) and small. Of course, it's also cheap so if it didn't work out, it's no big loss.

PDF files are available with the board artwork, parts list and wiring diagram. So what are you waiting for? Start building! Go create something!

Here are some sample pics to get you started/excited. Okay... now go visit the site and go create something!
 

Moogheads, Tubeheads, VCOVandals, VCFFreaks, DCOOverlords... let's build some modular synths! Get your soldering irons hot, open up your browsers to Digikey and Mouser and your favorite surplus store because you'll be building some wicked synths, old  school style. Yup.. old school style, without PIC programming or embedded firmware that a bunch of codewarriors just programmed. No siree!... we're going to be pushing, bending, forcing electrons to do the work... not some silicon nerd that's just faking it.

You can buy ready-made units from here, pick and match what you need, wait 4 weeks, and then wait for Mr.Brown to deliver your packages. Then you'll be able to create sounds like this.

If you can't wait that long, or want the excitement of DIY, you can buy the ready-made PCBs, add a few parts and there you have it.  Look at all the stuff you can build.

This site is run by Ken Stone.

CV processors

• Analog Logic voltage processor
• Analog Shift Register
• Cascade Mixer
• C.V. Cluster
• C.V. Mega Mixer
• D.C. Mixer
• Joystick controller
• Matrix Mixer
• Modulo Magic
• Voltage controlled amplifier

  CV Generators

• Diatonic Converter
• Gate Sequencer CV Adapter
• Infinite Melody
• Pedal board/Mini Keyboard
• Psycho LFO
• Programmer/Sequencer
• Super Psycho Modulation source.
• Utility LFO.

  Clock/Gate/Trigger processors

• Burst Generator
• Gated Comparator
• Gate to Trigger Converter
• Gate Sequencer
• Master Divider
• Pulse Divider and Boolean Logic
• Quad Logic Gate
• Slope Detector
• Sub-oscillator/harmonic sequencer

  Signal Processors

• Bandpass Filter
• Bi-N-Tic Voltage controlled Filter/oscillator
• Cascade Mixer
• Delay Development Board
• Dome Filter
• Modulo Magic
• Real Ring Modulator
• Saw Pitch Shifter/Wave Multiplier
• Simple Wave Folder
• Steiner Voltage Controlled HP, LP & BP Filter
• Steiner Voltage Controlled HP, LP & BP Filter, Eurorack format.
• Sequential Switch
• Tube VCA and wave folder
• Wave Multiplier
• Voltage controlled divider
• Voltage controlled amplifier

  Signal Generators

• Chime Simulator
• Cynare (drum simulator)
• Digital Noise
• Drum Simulator
• V8 Engine Simulator
• VCO
• Wavetable for VCOs

  General and Accessories

• +/- 15 Volt Power Supply
• Display Adapter
• LED Driver
• Power Supply Delay
• Stomp Box Adapter (Use CGS modules as effects pedals)
• Stomp Box Adapter (Use effects pedals as modules)

  Digital Synth subsections

• D/A Converter
• Digitally Controlled Oscillator
• Keyboard Scanner sub-module
• Parallel port adapter

Schematics, parts list, and description and operation of the circuit are pain-stakingly written on the site. This is an excellent, excellent website! Check out Ken Stone's Modular Synth website.

Some pics to get your blood going...

So you finished your project and it's now in a 1u or 2u rack chassis. Very nice.

However, the problem is nobody else except you know what all those knobs and switches are for. You need a way to paint labels on thos knobs and switches so it looks like a commercial unit.

You can use a service like FrontPanelExpress and have them create the front panel for you. They'll take care of drilling the holes, and labeling them by engraving the text on the aluminum plate. The result is a very professional front panel. They even provide you with a CAD software so you can layout and create all kinds of holes and openings (including D-sub connections, XLR, etc.). Then you submit the resulting file and you bare aluminum  front panel to them and they'll ship you back a finished product.

This site belongs to an MIT student named Ladyada. The project is a very small MP3 player that can fit inside an Altoids mint can. She calls it the Minty MP3 player.

So for approx. $50, minimal total cost of $25 for parts, and $25 for a PCB, you can have your own MP3 player. This rates high on the geek factor. It's a pretty advanced project so if this is your first DIY, don't pick this as your first DIY project.

I use a Windows program called "Eagle" made by CadSoft Online. This is a great schematic to PCB design program to use. And best of all, it's FREE (some restrictions apply).  The learning curve is a little steep, but after a few hours of practice, it becomes intuitive and you begin to appreciate it's power and capability.



The Autorouter feature is great. Basically, the program will find the best possible path to connect your components together. Or, you can do it manually but the program still helps you by guiding you when connecting the points together.

Once you're done with your PCB design, you can send it off for manufacturing or prototyping.

UPDATE!!!!   Eagle software can now run on Mac OSX! Woohoo!!!  Caveat is, it's run under X11. But doesn't matter... because the files that I saved on the PC worked just fine when opened on the Mac OSX (X11) version.

Here's some screenshots.

The Eagle control panel running under OSX (X11)

The Board editor

This is a 32-knob, 16 switch MIDI Controller that can be used with any sequencer, like Sonar, DP, Logic or Ableton Live. By using the MIDI Learn function of your sequencer, and tweaking the knobs, you can train your sequencer to respond to the controls of this DIY MIDI Controller.

Want to have your own electronic drum set but can't afford a Roland set? This guy built his own drum kit using Radio Shack Piezo transducers, some jacks, and a few wires.  Of course, you'd still need the drum machine like a TD-7, but this will save you  hundreds by making your own drum pads.



And the finished drum set...



More information can be found here.

I haven't DIY'ed for a long time, so to kickstart this hobby again, I decided I'm going to build an 1176 Compressor.

The 1176 is one of the classic compressors in used by almost every recording studio out there. (The other classic compressor is the LA-2A). Bill Putnam designed the 1176, based on the 1108 preamp. Back in 1966, the Field Effect Transistor (FET) was just developed and he's experimenting with the properties of this new device. Basically, think of an FET as a "voltage controlled variable resistor."  The FET has three terminals. Drain, Source, and Gate. The resistance between the Drain and Source can  be varied/controlled by the Gate voltage. So what Mr. Putnam was doing with the FET is using it as a variable resistor to contorl the gain reduction in the circuit.

The output stage of the 1176 is a Class A line level amp, feeding a load of 600 ohms. It's got an output transformer which converts the output from unbalanced to balanced, and also do impedance matching. 

If you don't know or don't want to DIY, you can buy an 1176LN (for Low Noise) compressor for about $1800. Or, you can purchae "virtual" 1176 plugins from $130 to $225 price range. Click here for software plugin versions of the 1176.

I now have a mic preamp kit inspired by the API preamp. Check it out! You can buy the complete kit on my website. http://www.fivefish.net/diy/ http://www.fivefishstudios.com/ffimages/X12-Preamp-Fivefish-large.jpg This is my own version of a classic preamp, popular in the 70s and still popular today. It's not a clone since I'm using a totally different signal path and design, and different input and output transformers. But the sound nevertheless is awesome. Big and beefy with lots of transformer mojo goodness. Note: This kit is my 1u rack version with on-board local voltage regulators. Using Input and Output Transformers 12-step Gain from 22dB to 68dB, at 4dB/step -20dB Input Pad High-quality parts Option to use Discrete OpAmps with the 990/2520 format Using high-performance chipsets, currently the best chip around Using High-speed 2000V/us, video buffer, high-current transformer line driver Using Grayhill switch - high quality mil-spec with output trim Bourns potentiometer - so you can overdrive the input trafo and be able to trim the output of the pre. Null offset trimmer adjustment LED-lighted push buttons for 48V phantom, pads, and polarity reverse Relay Controlled Polarity Reverse Relay Controlled -20dB Pad Soft-start/Ramp-up 48V Phantom Power Includes on-board voltage regulators Professional PCB, Rohs PCB with double-sided, plated-through holes, 2oz. copper with soldermask, silkscreen layout, Includes everything... 5-LED VU Meter, spacers, screws, knobs